Gender: Female
Status: Married
Age: 25
Sign: Sagittarius
City: Washington
State: Washington DC
Country: US
Signup Date:
11/04/05
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Thursday, June 19, 2008
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Vietnam
July 23, 2008 So . . . we have been home for a bit and I have not sent my last email! I guess I will do it a bit backwards and mention what has happened since we got home. Our flight was crazy delayed and we got back at 4am on a Weds. By noon someone had stolen our car!!! It sucks and was very frustrating. Tom had some of his favorite books in the trunk and it is a major bummer. *sigh* Anyway- I have been working at Ivymount as a sub and starting my work as a private therapist and tutor. I got business cards and everything :) It is hard working for myself . . . clients cancel at the last minute and then I can't eat haha but overall I am enjoying it. I am working with the same families as I was last year and have added a few news ones. Anyway- When I last emailed, Tom was hours away from getting very sick. The poor guy got Dengue Fever! He had a super high fever and major vomitting . . . it was terrible! We went to the hospital and the doctor said "Oh, it is not too serious. It is like bird flu. 70% of people who have it are fine." *ah!* Dengue is transmitted by mosquitos and there is no treatment and no prevention . . . ugh! He was sick for a few days so our time in Phom Phen was low-key. We stayed near the hotel but did go see some of the genocide sites. We traveled to Seim Reap when Tom was well enough and it was pretty amazing. We saw the Temples of Angkor and they were incredible. We hired a tuk-tuk driver to take us throughout the ruin complex and he nearly burst into tears when he told us about some bad luck and his wife threatening to leave him over lunch. It was intense. While out we saw temples that were used in tomb raider, incredible wall carvings, and huge stone buildings with giant faces carved on them. When we arrived at the temples, there was a monkey. The monkey jumped at a guy and started jumping on his leg and biting him! The guy just let the monkey bite him and laughed as people snapped pictures. Tom and I did not want any part of a potentially rabid monkey so we split up and went separate directions down the stairs. The monkey ignored me but attacked Tom! As it lunged for Tom, Tom jumped off of the temple platform (like 8 feet!) and handed not so gracefully on the ground. I turned around and saw Tom in the air . . . followed by the monkey!!!! The monkey jumped off after him. When Tom landed and got up from his fall he ran away from the monkey which then chased him!!! It jumped onto Tom's leg and he had to kick it in the face to get away from the evil beast. It was crazy! He was nervous about monkeys for the rest of the day (with good reason)! After spending a day at the ruins we tried to watch sunset but the sky was too cloudy. So, we went home and went to bed. The next day we went to a silk factory and a wood working factory which was staffed by disabled people from the community. It was cool to see how the silk was made from the silk worm cocoons. I had no idea that the boiled the moths in the cocoons and then used the cocoon for the silk. It was pretty neat to watch. We saw the whole process, including 2 moths mating! After the workshops we took a plane back to Hanoi. Our last few days in Hanoi were nice. We shopped, saw puppet theatre (which was great!), went to museums, and walked all over town. Best of all we got several massages (including one where I was essentially beat up with hot stones by 2 women!) We went to a night club one night which we quickly realized was a house of prostitution. We had 5 very friendly waitresses and their were gogo dancers doing a pretty fancy dance routine on a huge stage. It was bizarre but sort of fun. We also enjoyed a jazz club with a great singer and tried Vietnamese KFC. Overall we had a very nice stay but decided that we liked HCMC much better .. . we would love to go back there. When we left Hanoi we went to Japan and had a great time in Tokyo! I had a pretty bad migraine but I pushed through and we saw shrines, gardens, homes, sites, and walked all around. It was fantastic! The best part of the Tokyo trip was a visit to a fish market. The market sold something like 2000 tons of fish every day! There were tuna, an octopus, and tons of other fish. We saw a huge muscle and it spit on me! It was so neat to see the fish. We saw people selling, buying, and butchering fish. It was great! Now we are home . . . getting back into the swing of things . . . and it is nice to relax a bit. Pictures: http://community.webshots.com/album/564210272KfbOUV?vhost=community July 1st, 2008 We have a little more than a week left in the trip and have been doing a lot of fun things! We really enjoyed HCMC (Saigon). We volunteered a bit (but realized continuing was more for us than for the kids, so we did less than we had planned because the place was so overstaffed with volunteers), we walked all over the town, we saw museums, we met local people, and we just took in the town. We had a lovely dinner with my uncles wife, Luyen, and visited a wonderful night life craft market . . . what fun! We also met two great American guys who we wished we could have gotten to know a bit better. It was nice to be in one place for a bit. In Ho Ch Mihn City we visited the Cu Chi tunnels (a networks of tunnels that the VC used). We moved through the tunnels, but they were so tiny there were parts that were tough to get through. It was pretty touristed, but it was interesting to see the bamboo spiked booby traps and the like. They had a firing range where people could fire Vietnam era weapons. Tom fired an AK-47. It was interesting being in the tunnels and hearing the shots from the firing range . . . . with the re-planted jungle and leafy shelters it was almost possible to imagine how terrifying it must have been to be a US army personnel walking in the dense jungle . . . uncertain what could happen at any moment . . . We also visited the War museum which was VERY one-sided and filled with slanted propaganda against the US . . . it was still interesting to see though. We also saw a broader history museum which covered all of Vietnam's history. Tom was particularly enthralled with the exhibit which catalogued Vietnam's defeat of one of Genghis Khan's son's army. We were able to book a boat into Cambodia that would take 3 days and travel through parts of the Mekong Delta. It was a shabby tour with a guide who kept promising ""city tours"which really were just walks to a hotel he was affiliated with and our hotel the first night lost water. But, overall, it was an exciting trip. We traveled by motor boat, speed boat, canoe, ferry, bus, and horse drawn carriage. We saw a coconut candy factory, a noodle factory, and a rice paper factory (really just sheds with hard working people making the treats). We also visited a crocodile farm, floating markets (boats where people sold mostly produce), and houses over the water with holes in the floor where they kept fish farms. At times we left we were in tourist-land and at other times we felt like we had been plopped into Apocalypse Now. It was pretty neat. We traveled with differet people who came and went but spent the entire 3 days with a Brazilian, a European, and 6 people from Malaysia. We we got to the Cambodian border everything went badly! We did not have a full page empty in our passports for the full page Visa we needed to get into Cambodia. We have had full page Visas before but never from a border crossing. We had assumed it would just be a stamp like we got in the 25 or so other countries we have visited. But, we could not! They told us we had to go back to Saigon and get a new passport. It was terrible! If we had gone back we could have lost our time in Cambodia AND had to waste 3 days or more traveling by bus back up Vietnam . . . we had a flight booked out of Cambodia too and we would have wasted all of the money. I cried, Tom yelled, then we pleaded and after an hour they finally gave us the Visa. I am not sure what changed their minds, but the border officer was not happy about it. We arrived in Cambodia last night and stayed in a gross hotel with a moth the size of the hand hiding in the bathroom. The 2 block walk to the main strip in town was filled with trash and homeless people . . . . a very sharp contrast to the essentially litter free Vietnam that we had just experienced. The main strip was dribbled with prostitutes, cross-dressers, and dirty old white men soliciting them. However, that was nearly camouflaged by the huge number of scantly clad-club-hopping Westerners. We felt totally safe but did not enjoy the atmosphere at all! Today, in the day light, things look a bit better. People have been nice to us and we did some sight seeing. We went to see the Killing Fields Memorial and a school house that had been converted to a prison where mass executions and torture took place during the genocide . . . . what a terrible occurrence! It is somewhat evident that all of the older generations intellectuals were killed. Young people all speak English and seem to value education (from our brief glimpse into the Capital culture) whereas older people seem poor and dejected. Cambodia is going through an artistic resurgence of sorts and it is an interesting time ot be here. I am also struck by the difference in the level of infrastruture and progress in comparision to a country like Rwanda who suffered a similair genocide so much more recently. Rwanda is modern and clean and beautiful. Cambodia is not. It is beautiful in a way .. . . there is some amazing arcitecture and some lovely aspects of the surroundings . . . . but it is not beautiful by classic standards. Anyway- sorry for the rambling! We head to Seim Reap tomorrow to visit Angkor. We are excited for that. We fly to Hanoi on July 4th and head home on the 7th . . . spend a day in Tokyo . . . and arrive in NYC 20 minutes before we left! Our trip to South Korea had to be canceled . . because flights were CRAZY expensive! Hopefully we can visit Amy some other time! I will write again from Hanoi. June 24th, 2008 Wow! This is an incredible country. I will start this email with a few over-gernalizations: 1. People are generally honest here 2. Services can be spotty but it appears to be lack of expereince rather than a concerted effort to screw us 3. Many tourists assume they are being cheated when they are not 4. Travel is generally easy and reliable 5. Even the pushiest people are still friendly and loveable 6. Vietnemese people as a whole do not hold the war against American travelers and seem to be on the mend towards forgiving the actions of the governement (ie agent orange etc). However, Vietnemese people do not seem to learn about the tortures their people committed . . . one tour guide said that in school he read a book written by an American POW who talked about how wonderful Vietnese War-Prision camps were . . . 6. It is hot as hell here!!!! We are really enjoying this trip. It is difficult not speaking Vietnemese in that it limits our access to many of the local people. However, we are finding that many Vietnamese tourists are doing the very same little trips we are doing. This is exposing us to a small piece of Vietnamese culture. Last I left off we were leaving Hue. We did go listen to the traditional music (a woman played the tea cups!) and we were the only people in the audience! It was beautiful and Tom bought a CD. We took a morning bus to Hoi An and spent the afternoon looking at local sites. We saw a beautiful assembly hall, an old home, more live music (this time with acting!), and a lovely pagoda. It was a nice leaisurely afternoon. After we finished the walking advenure, we decided to buy some cloths. Hoi An is know from its amzing tailors (thanks for the heads up Matt!) We went a little crazy but got some beuatiful clothing made. Tom got a suit, 5 shirts, and a winter dress coat. I got a suit (with pants, jacket, and skirt), a shirt to go with it, a wonderful winter coat (I have needed a new one for 2 years!), 4 sun dresses, and one more formal dress. It was great fun and did not cost us too much. It was neat to have things tailor made. We had great fun bargaining our price down and had to work harder than usual! Later we also found some incredicble art that i can't wait to get home and hang. The next day we went to My Son where we saw some fantastic ruins of the Cham Dynasty that had been bombed in the war. We left at 5am and returned at 10:30am. That gave us time for a shower and then for our fitting for our clothes. Then we took a cooking class where we learned to make spring rolls, fish, and the best salad i have ever had (papaya and shrimp with a garlic oil dressing). We ended the day with a final fitting and rushed to shower again (it was soooo hot!!!!) and caught ouy 6:30pm over night bus to Nha Trang. Nha Trang was a busling beach town. Tom and I have never been big beach people. We love the ocean and beaches but get bored just hanging around on the beach (yes yes crazy i know). We decided only to spend one day in Nha Trang and booked another overnight bus for that night (yesterday). We opted for a cheap tour ($5) that the tour book suggested and we assumed would be filled with white people. It was to take us to several islands and then snorkling. We grappled with with agency to book it through and eventually settled on one. At the last minute we tried to change it to go to a mud-bath natural spring but we could not. When we arrived at the boat we found we were the only westerners (save a US immigrant from Vietnam and a recently divorced woman from new Zealand). Everyone else was Vietnemese. This was a pleasant surprise! We ended up having the most fun we have had in a long time partying with everyone of this random boat cruise! The trip started with a boat ride to an acquiriam which was formed like a coarl Pirate Ship. On the way our crazy boat guide introduced himself as "Phook no F**K" and did a hilarious bit where we pretended to be Leonardo DiCaprio in Titanic. He was a really hilarious fellow. We saw all sorts of fish, sea turtles, and sharks! Then we rode to a snorkleing spot. We jumped from the boat and saw beautiful coral and colorful fish. We even saw jelly fish! Tom and I were so scared we swam back to the boat to ask our guide to rescue us! haha. Turns out they were the non-stinging variety. After we snorkeled we had a feast on the boat and the Phuk and 3 other boat crew made a "boy band" and sang karokee-style songs. It was great! They had everyone dancing on the chairs (which had been folded down to make a stage) and made us do Conga-lines. It was pretty great that there were so many local people on board, otherwise it may have felt somewhat exploitative to have this man making such a ham of himself. As it stood, it was just really great fun! Next we had a floating bar, where they plotted a man in an innertube with local wine. We had to put our feet on the tube and he made people chug wine who said the word "no". It was really funny. We ended the boat trip on a beach where we swam and laid in the sun for about 45 minutes and then had a great fruit spread as we rode back. It was very different from anything Tom and I do when we travel and was great fun! Though, I will share that the toilet exploded all over me at one point and I had to dump buckets of water on myself and then jump into the sea!!!!!! yuck!!!!!!!! We were so glad we skipped the mud spring but were still feeling like it would have been neat. As we were discussing this, someone beckoned into their massage parlour and we ended up getting massages and mud bath. It was not the same as the Springs, but it was wonderful! All in all, it was a pretty fantastic day. We then hopped onto our final overnight bus and arrive in Ho Chi Mon City (Siagon) this morning. We found an orphanage to volunteer at and it is in amazing condition. The children are well cared for and there were many volunteers. We spent the day there and will go back on Thursday. They were pretty over-staffed though. As a result, we may not spend as much time volunteering this trip as we had planned. There are about 6 volunteers who have been here 2 weeks and will stay another month. Because of that, we are almost in the way. We will see how it goes on Thursday. We are also looking into helping out at a nearby school, but are unsure what they want us to do. So, we will see.
Anyway- that is that. Please excuse the typos . . . I am in a rush as always when we travela nd my internet time is almost up :) June 20th, 2008 Hey there! Wow! What an amazing time we are having! Here are the blow by blows: We started the trip with a nice night in NYC with Al. He let us sleep in his room and found a great burger joint for me. It was pouring rain and the trains were delayed, but we made it and it was a nice visit. Terry Godlove drove out the JFK and had breakfast with us before we left (which was a real treat!). After a 14 hour flight we arrived in Tokyo. The subway system is extensive . . . but very overwhelming! We found a nice woman at the ticket office who rushed us onto a train and we made our way into town. We stayed at a cute hostel, had Japanaese showers, bathed in the public bath, and searched out sushi. We had an amazing dinner and about halway through a very drubk Japanese man started to talk to us in broken English. When his food arrived he kept sending it our way. After a few attempts to give it back we sampled some new foods. He even overheard us ask the sushi-man if there was incecream and sent icecream our way. We tried to return the favor but he declined. After we left the sushi place, we wandered around town and took in the city. It was really a beautiful place. We soon encountered a little old man who began chattering is English (we think!) for a good 5 minutes as we walked. We have no idea what he was saying, but think he worked in Canada sometime in an autofactory. We ended up sleeping early, and the next morning, ate breakfast that we ordered from a vending machine (but was cooked in the kitchen). We made our way back to the airport with ease (but feared most of the ride that we were on the wrong train) When we arrived in Hanoi, we immediately fell in love. It is dirty and loud and wonderful! I imagine it would be overwhleming to someone new to traveling, but it is so much clamer than places like Cairo and Delhi. There is a pretty common scheme that the tour books always warn about involving taxi drivers that take you to the wrong hotel. That has only happened to us once in the past. When we arrived in hanoi it happened for the seond time.Had we not been seasoned travel;ers we would have fallen for it, but I had known to pull out the book and track our progress. We weren't even near the correct street! The taxi driver was angry but eventually took us where we needed to go. We tried to find a place to volunteer but realized it was not possible in Hanoi, so we booked a trip to Halong bay for teh next day (planning to spend some more time there at the end of the trip). As we walked around we noticed that there were many many motorbikes on the road and the only way to cross the street was to slowly move across no matter how many motorbikes were in your path! A new law says all motorboke riders must wear helmets. the helmets are great! Many wear war-style head gear made into all sorts of designs (classic green, floral, etc). They even have hemlets shaped like baseball caps. People look very western in dress and we even saw one woman text messaging while riding her moto bike! The trip to Halong Bay was amazing! We took a van to the harbor and hopped on a ship. It was raining so we had to wait about an hour but then we set off. It was so beautiful! Hundreds of tiny islands jutted from the sea covered in green. We were able to kayak through a cave filled with bats as well! We finished the boat trip at an island where we stayed in a beach bungalow. We had teh option to do more kayaking but were too tired. The next day we went by boat to another island and biked across the island! Some of you may know that I had previously forgotten how to ride a bike . . .well . . . i have now relearned and my tush is still sore from the seat! While biking we stopped at a cave that had been turned into a hospital for VC soldiers during the war. it had 3 floors and was incredible! We then took a loud speed boat back to teh main land, arrived back in hanoi 3 hours later, and took an overnight (terrible uncomfortable!) bus to Hoi An. The bus arrived late in Hue, so we missed the Hoi An bus. But, as it turned out, we were glad to have teh extra day in Hue. What a treat! We saw some tombs along the river, a pagoda, and the citadel which are all World Heritage Sites. Tomorrow at 8am we leave for Hoi An and will spend 2 days there. This has been a busy beginning of the trip but we are loving it! We are heading to dinner to hear live tradition music now
6:32 PM
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Sunday, December 30, 2007
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New house and jobs
hings are going well on this end. We are super busy (which always seems to be the story) but things are starting to settle down a little bit.
Tom is teaching 11th grade English at a school in DC. His school is located 2 blocks from the intersection of Martin Luther King Jr. St. and Malcolm X Blvd. The school is 99.5% African American (the Hispanic student is graduating this year). His school is intense (metal dectors and all) but he loves it. He is having a tough year (he is still finishing is Master's fulltime) and does not have any free time. But, he is having fun with his students and appears to be as successful as a first year teacher can be. His school has an incredible marching band and Ellen Degeneres just gave his school some money and school supplies. Here is a link to a film about his school: http://www.balloumovie.com/ Tom is finishing his degree in May and is looking forward to teaching without having to take classes,
I am still working in a classroom with aggressive boys with Aspergers. I love it. We have new students this year and it is a challenge, but it is fun. I love being in this program. It is new so it is fun to watch it grow and have a tiny bit of input in the process as it does grow. I am so in love with this population that I have turned my career path in a slightly different direction. I have applied for PhD programs in Psych and hope to start a Behavior Analyst certification program after I finish my exams for my Master's degree in Public Policy (this Spring). I am also doing ABA therapy with a 6 year old Autistic boy twice a week and am enjoying that as well. He is non-verbal so it is quiet different that working with my kiddos. When I get my PhD I want to work in aggression reduction at some level (maybe in a school, private practice, or some other way). I still want to do legislative advocacy but I think that I want to do clinical work for the majority of the time. My book has been for sale online and that has been fun. I am working on a story, currently, from the perspective of a 7 year old with Aspergers. I don't know if it will go anywhere, but I am having a ton of fun with it. I am always looking for constructive criticism so if you ever want to read any of it and let me know and I'll send you what i have so far. I'd welcome the input!
We bought a new house. It is very near the condo and we love it! We are renting out the condo and living in the house. Here are pictures of the townhouse:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/561844912KSVkop?vhost=good-times&vhost=good-times
So, overall, things are great. We are tired and busy but next semester should be a lot easier. I'd love to hear what is happening over there!
3:33 PM
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Monday, September 25, 2006
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Newspaper article about Tom and I
Into Africa
Published: Sunday, September 25th, 2005
By TY PHILLIPSBEE STAFF WRITER
Africa. It had seemed like such a neat idea when Saundra Dobbs and Tom Bishop first tossed it around in the spring of 2004. They would travel to Ghana and spend six weeks volunteering on a building project while experiencing some beautifully rugged country.
But that's the thing about adventure: The true meaning of rugged living doesn't take shape until you're committed. And, bouncing toward a hospital on the back of an old flatbed chicken truck, her body roiling with malaria, Saundra certainly found herself committed.
The truck powered toward the nearest town at about 25 mph. The driver weaved wildly to avoid holes in the muddy roads as rain soaked the passengers — dozens of chickens crammed into small cages and people crammed into the spaces between chickens. For much of the ride, Saundra closed her eyes, pulled her knees up against her chest and gripped the wooden side rails, trying to avoid throwing up again. Or worse.
Each time the truck hit a hole, the passengers bounced a few feet into the air and landed hard on the metal bed, bruising butts and knees; people groaned as mud repeatedly splattered the passenger area. The ride lasted 45 minutes and, for Saundra, it felt like a lifetime. However, when the truck dropped them off in the middle of the nearest city with a hospital, their journey was not yet complete. So they hailed a beat-up taxi whose driver could have used some lessons from the erratic chicken-truck driver.
Some of the taxi's windows were broken, and a door had to be held closed by hand. Passing through a rural stretch en route to the hospital, the taxi approached a herd of sheep standing in the dirt roadway. The driver honked several times and slowed some, but Tom sensed the driver did not intend to stop. That was bad news for two sheep that failed to leave the road in time; the animals disappeared and became lodged in the undercarriage. The driver yelled a little, got out and yanked the sheep from beneath the car, then got back inside. Tom sat in the front seat, a bit speechless, looking out the window at the motionless animals as the taxi sped away. All the while, Saundra sat in the back, trying to keep all her fluids inside — and that's about as nicely as that can be put.
When the taxi finally arrived at the hospital, Saundra stepped out, walked to the admitting desk and promptly collapsed. She awoke a little later sitting in a wheelchair draped in spider webs. Her IV stand was a 2-by-4 with a bent nail for a hook. She had been given many shots; one of them mistakenly was administered into her arm rather than her rear, causing the arm to swell immensely.
'I freaked out when I saw it,' she said. 'I started sobbing because I thought I was dying. It was so horrible.'
Life's most colorful stories often aren't much fun while they're happening. But Saundra, who graduated from Modesto High School in 2001, made a nice recovery. She and Tom, who also caught malaria last year during the couple's first trip to Ghana, both helped construct a concrete building in a small village that is being used to further women's rights causes in Africa.
For those who fear younger generations are in dire need of people of accountability and compassion, I present to you the Bishops:
Last month, the couple returned from a second stint in Africa, where they helped teach classes in AIDS and malaria awareness. They also bought 150 mosquito nets and distributed them to villagers.
In Ghana, a friend led them to a small village whose people share the nearest water source — essentially a muddy pond — with cows and parasites. The Bishops have embarked on a mission to change that, and they hope to have three fresh water wells in the village by next summer.
The couple currently are enjoying a four-week honeymoon in Costa Rica. They are spending their first two weeks volunteering in an orphanage and staying with a Costa Rican family. They will spend the remaining two weeks exploring the country and celebrating their marriage.
'We would have felt bad if we went somewhere that was mostly poor and had a lavish vacation,' Saundra said. 'At this point in our lives, it's not something we would have been comfortable with.
'Honestly, I can't give you a reason why we have done some of the (volunteering). It's all just kind of happened. I know it makes us feel good when we do it. It's also a way to see the world and meet different people. It helps them, and helps us. We might not be able to do those things when we have careers and kids, so we want to do as much of it as we can now.'
The couple, both 22, met in August 2001, shortly after they moved to New York City to attend Hofstra University. They spent a lot of time together during those first weeks, setting the stage for the night Saundra called Tom into her room to have the obligatory I-can't-have-a-boyfriend-at-this-point-in-my-life talk. Tom, who grew up in Sunnyvale, wasn't all that interested in having a girlfriend, either, but his analytical mind led him to point out flaws in her logic. A long discussion ensued.
'Somehow, by the end of the conversation, we had agreed to be boyfriend and girlfriend. Neither of us could figure out how we got there. We were just kind of like, 'Oh, well then. OK. So that's that.''
Two days later, the Twin Towers fell. From the top floor of a campus library, the couple watched the black smoke rising, signaling a new era. Not knowing anyone else in the city, the two leaned on each other during those first surreal days after 9-11.
'It definitely brought us closer together,' she said. 'Sept. 11 kept me from wanting to go out and party. It made it easy to stay home and hang out together.'
It also fostered the desire to bring good deeds into a world that has no shortage of bad ones. She volunteered as a crisis counselor for a suicide hot line, and they both spent time working in a group home for developmentally disabled people.
In 2003, while sitting in their home tossing around ideas of how to spend the summer, one of them threw out the idea of volunteering in Africa. Saundra got onto the computer and found the Sungsim Women's Association, a group based in Larabanga, Ghana, that aims to provide African girls and women greater access to school and training programs to help raise the status of women in their society. The association also focuses on informing community members about the AIDS virus to help prevent its spread.
During their first African tour, Tom and Saundra worked on a community building for SWA as well as two guest rooms that can be rented to help fund the organization. Outside of the malaria experience and several lesser calamities, the Bishops had such a good experience that they returned last summer to help teach the classes in AIDS and malaria awareness.
It was during that visit that a woman named Nana, who heads a women's group, guided the Bishops to a small village untouched by tourism or Western culture. It is a place of circular mud huts, straw roofs and meager corn fields managed by peasants. There is no electricity and no running water.
The Bishops wound up in a small hut. They sat on crude benches fashioned from wood chunks and met with some of the tribe's 1,500 people. Using Nana as an interpreter, the Bishops asked if there was anything they could do that might be helpful to their group, perhaps some type of malaria or AIDS project. An unexpected answer came back: We just want clean water.
'Here we were offering to bring them things like mosquito nets, and they're asking for water,' Tom said. 'We were like, 'OK, we need to back up about 10 steps here.'
'It's three miles to their nearest pond. Cows drink from it and there are worms swimming around. They have been taught to strain the water through this fabric to get the big pieces like rocks, dirt, bugs and hair. They couldn't boil it because wood and coal are scarce and costly. If you stepped in this water, you'd get parasites that would blister your skin. It's awful, and this is their drinking water.'
The couple, working with West Africans they have befriended, began doing research and discovered that Ghana's government will pay 95 percent of the costs associated with digging bore-holes for drinking water. That left the Bishops to come up with the remaining 5 percent, or about $750.
Obviously, volunteering in Africa and Costa Rica doesn't bring in a lot of money, so the couple had to get creative. At their wedding on Sept.11 at The Palms Cafe in Modesto, the couple — scheduled to begin a 27-month assignment in the Peace Corps starting in November — gave guests bookmarks that explained the funds for traditional party favors had been diverted to help pay for three fresh water wells in a West African village.
'We won't be able to go back to Africa until after the Peace Corps, unless we're stationed somewhere fairly close,' Tom said. 'But we're hoping to have everything in place by the end of the year. Then the government will set a contract date and begin drilling. We're hoping they have fresh water there by next summer.'
9:16 AM
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Wednesday, August 22, 2007
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India
8-21-07
INDIA POEM
Floods, earthquakes, parasites Rickshaws and strikes Moutians, rivers, farms Cows, cars, and motor bikes
The rich and the poor First and last class Smiling crowds, sideways nods Angry sneers, leers in mass
Cheating and swindles Honesty and goodwill Strong and healthy people The dying and the ill
Dry, hot, and dirty Wet, cool, and pristine Crowded and loud Empty, quiet, clean
India is juxtaposition Saying come, shouting go Insisting no, but calling yes Beautiful and grotesque
8-18-07 Hi all! We're back in DC safely! It was a long flight home. But we made it! Our last few days in Delhi were pleasant. We did craft shoppingg and visited a few Hindu Temples. Everyone we met was very nice to us and the bargaining was successful and fun. So in sum, India was def a series of opposites. I really loved my time there and Tom and I plan to go back at some point. India pics are online I want to leave you with a few stories I forgot to include in other emails Tom had parasites for most of the trip . . fun times! I got a random face rash (probably heat rash) that made me itch on my face like crazy for several days! Tom and I both fell on different hikes and nearly fell down a mountain! Tom was stopped by a tree and I had the good instinct to just sit as I was falling. Delhi has a new metro system that the books didn't mention. Its been open for about a year and it great! It is very efficient and fast. It was cheap and clean too. It was constantly packed and allowed us to avoid being on the road (and allowed those peopel to avoid being on the road with us). It was funny though, because people did not seem to understand teh concept that if you want to get on the train, it is easier to let the people off the train first. There were even arrows pained on the ground to remind people not to block to doorways. Instead, people would push onto teh train like salmon swimming up stream! We had to body check people just to get ourselves off the train! In one hotel, there was a small girl who seemed to be teh child of teh hotel owner (maybe 4 years old) who latched onto us when we arrived. We were too tired to make her leave and she jumped onto Tom's bed. She punched him in the stomach and then did sommersaults which ended with her kicking him in the face. Later, the same child took a cat by the tail, swung it in circles, and tried to hit a dog with it!..>..D(["mb","..u003c/div..>..n..u003cdiv..> ..u003c/div..>..n..u003cdiv..> ..u003c/div..>..n..u003cdiv..>Well . . I think those about round out the random stories I forgot to mention. ..u003c/div..>..n..u003cdiv..> ..u003c/div..>..n..u003cdiv..>Hope all is well!..u003c/div..>..n..u003cdiv..> ..u003c/div..>..n..u003cdiv..>Saundra and Tom..u003c/div..>..n..u003cdiv..> ..u003c/div..>..n..u003cdiv..> ..u003c/div..>..n",0]);D(["mi",0,2,"1147928403bc8665",0,"0","Mail Delivery Subsystem","Mail","mailer-daemon@googlemail.com",[[],[["me","saundrabishop@gmail.com","1147928403bc8665"]],[]],"9:27 am (2 minutes ago)",["saundrabishop@gmail.com"],[],[],[],"Aug 18, 2007 9:27 AM","Delivery Status Notification (Failure)","",[],0,,,"Sat Aug 18 2007_9:27 AM","On 8/18/07, Mail Delivery Subsystem ..u003cmailer-daemon@googlemail.com..> wrote:","On 8/18/07, ..u003cb class..u003dgmail_sendername..>Mail Delivery Subsystem..u003c/b..> wrote:",,,,"","",0,,"..u003c0016364176f10437f9453e2c17b18b@googlemail.com..>",0,,0,"In reply to .."Back in DC.."",0]);//-->..> Well . . I think those about round out the random stories I forgot to mention. 8-14-07 Hi all! So, I am continuing to survive the adventure that is India. I have not been a part of any landslides, terrorist attacks, or any other calamity that CNN seems to be reporting. Furthermore, I am happily surviving Independence Day celebrations (which I will describe in more detail below). I have however experienced a few exciting moments. After sleeping in our hotel in Siliguri (after losing 3 days of travel to the terrible-ness of Raxault, Patna, and New Jalapuri) we were finally set to leave at 6am on a 3 hour jeep. We had been assured the night before that the jeeps existed and were thrilled. . . . . Of course, things could not be that easy. Ever. No one seemed to remember that we had enquired about a trip to Pelling and universally we were informed that there was no direct jeep. Something we realized, is that Indians do this side-ways nod. It looks somewhat like a slight shake-no with a tick. We were told it means "yes." We've concluded it actually means "Well . . technically . . . but i won't trouble you with the details." I hate that nod. After some research we found a jeep that would take us to yet another town called Jortang. We were assured we could get a direct jeep to Pelling from there. The ride took 2 hours and the road was awful. We were crowded and everytime we hit a bump, my head hit the ceiling. It was unpleasant, but far better than Raxault. I hate Raxault haha. All of this was mitigated by the fact that the views were breath-taking. We wove throughout the mountains and saw huge waterfalls, rivers, and beautiful mountainscapes. When we arrived at Jorthang, the same person who had been very friendly to us and told us that there was direct jeep to Pelling (with a sideways nod) said, "Okay, now you have to take a jeep to Geyzig and then another bus to Pelling." We were speechless. No one seemed to mean us ill-will . . . but we were amazed how universally everyone could give us bad information. It is unlike anything Tom and I have eve experienced. We all just laughed with frustration, found another jeep to Geyzig and rode for another hour. In Geyzig we were able to find the jeep to Pelling and eventually arrived around 3pm. We hadn't eaten yet that day, so we dropped our bags and ate first thing. At lunch we met a nice chap who had done the several day hike that we were planning to do. He gave us some nice tips and he and Mike spent a long time chatting on the roof. After we ate, we walked 2 km or so to some ruins. They were nice. Mostly, it just felt good to be at our destination. Sikkim is a region in India that appears to have been annexed at some point. They remained relatively independent and have strict rules regarding their environment. Therefore, it is beautiful. It is 5600 above sea level and was a little chilly. There was evidence of minor landslides on theh roads but overall it was pristine beauty. The next day we started a several day hike from town to town. We started by hopping a jeep with two nice guys to a Lake. On the way we stopped at a pretty cool water fall and a "rock garden" which was basically a man made garden next to the blue raging rapids of the river. At the lake, we wandered around the lake (during which time one of the men shrieked everytime he saw a bug) and tried to find a cave. Our search was not fruitful, but it was a nice time nonetheless. After admiring the lake, we started the hike to Katchpuri. We walked through farms, forrests, and mountain ranges. We climbed over rickety bridges, under fallen logs, and admired the peaceful environment. The occasional farmer would pass, but other than that we did not see people. We took man detours, wrong turns, and the 5 hour hike turned into 7 hours (much of it uphill). When we thought we had finished, we realized we had to walk an addition 1 hour up hill!!! That was not the most fun I have ever had. The last hour was hard and we were starting to lose our light. But, a nice local guy reassured us that we were close to finishing and we made it. We grabbed a hotel and fell asleep after a quick dinner. The next day we walked to a second town It was much hotter and I wasn't feeling well, so we decided to hop a jeep to the next town. Once there, we rested, realized the biggest spiders ever lived in the bathroom, hiked 45 minutes uphill to a monastery, saw a beautiful garden which is said to wipe away all of a person's sin, and Tom and I both got leeches! The leeches were gross little slug-things that bit between our toad and on our ankles. We pulled them off, we bleed a little, then we were fine. We made it down by dark and had dinner. During dinner, the entire building shook for maybe 30 seconds. I thought an animal had run across the roof. The owner looked worried and ran outside. Earthquake!!! We pondered whether it was a per-shock and opted to go to bed. We asked around and found that earthquakes were common and there hadn't been a big one since 1979. The next day we grabbed another jeep to Geyzig. In Geyzig, we got to visit the Sunday market. Mike bought tea that might be illegal drugs haha and I got a great picture of two very old India women with traditional face piercings smoking a joint haha. After Geyzig, we took another jeep to Pelling. On the way back, we stopped at a Buddhist monetary and were able to go inside while they were playing music and chanting. It was pretty awsome. We looked at the giant gold statues of gods and walked up a staircase to this carved mandala that was so amazing i can't even describe it. It was as big as the room and depicted the stages of life. It was incredible. After that, Tom and I felt exhausted and burnt out. So, we paid an extra dollar for an upgraded room and laid in bed for the rest of the day watching random tv (I Shouldn't Be Alive, Boston Legal, Coyote Ugly, and a documentary on Tibet). The next day we caught our early jeep directly to Siliguri, were placed on a rickshaw to New Jalipugi and purchased out 6pm train tickets to Varanasi. Since we had missed so much time, due to our travel delays, we had to alter plans to include a 10 hour lay over in Varanasi. It was going to give us enough time to get a taste for the town (we would do a river ride, see a few temples, and walk around). Varanasi is one of the holiest places for Hindus. It is said that dying here will end the cycle of life. Therefore, many people make pilgrimages here. We had heard a lot of nice things about and and were looking forward to rounding out of spiritual experiences. The train was right on time and we couldn't stop grinning as it pulled away from the platform. We had made it out! Incidentally, when we woke up the next day, we learned the train had somehow started running 6 hours behind schedule! This gave us 4 hours in Varanasi (including travel time). We were annoyed, but decided to make due. We grabbed our stuff, went to the prepaid taxi stand (the place that you are supposed to be able to trust your taxi driver from) and grabbed a taxi to the boat. Our driver was nice and spoke good english. He offered to have us hire him for the afternoon, to take us to the temples etc. We considered it and finally agreed. He weaved through the streets and took us to a ghat (the Ganges River is divided into ghats. Each ghat has a special religious significance). The driver got out of the car and took us through a tunnel that was very dark. As we wandered through we realized it was filled with people who were dying (some of which already looked dead). We moved quickly after the driver to the ghat. He lead us to a boat man who tried to charge us a price that was way to high. We argued and threatened to walk away. The only thing stopping us was realizing wed have to walk back through the tunnel! Finally, we agreed to a price. As I pulled out the book to read the entry on this ghat, i realized it did not match the description. i asked a random man where we were and he confirmed the driver had taken us to the wrong place. We were pretty annoyed. We quickly made a new game plan, decided to have the boat driver (a different man than we arranged the price with) drop us at the correct ghat, rather than returning and being forced to ride with the cheating cab driver anymore. Overall, the river ride was very nice. We saw several sacred ghats and temples and even witnessed two cremations. It was nice to just float down the river and see people bathing and using the water for their spiritual purposes. We then tried to see two temples but were driven to the wrong one by a different rickshaw driver. It ended up being okay because we were able to see a random Hindu temple with anamatronicg, metal puppets that moved, danced, and even appeared to be eatting each other. We got a different taxi driver to the train station, found our track, grabbed some suspect food (we hadn't eatten in 24 hours except some chips) and successfully made the train to Delhi. We arrived in Delhi today and it was nice. It was familiar and we knew what to expect. The train was 3 hours delayed, but we did not really have anything planned. We went and saw an astronomical sight that is like a sundial meant to predict eclipses etc. It was cool. We also did some shopping and just wandered around Delhi. It was low-stress and nice. Today is Independence Day and it is craziness! The rooftops are filled with people flying kites and setting off fireworks. It is really a sight to behold! Anyway- tomorrow we fly home at midnight and we should touch down in DC at 11pm on Friday night. Yay! See you soon! 8-13-07 Hi all! So the saga continues . . . last email left us on the bus to Raxault. The reason I hate Nepali guerrillas is that, somehow, without me ever encountering them, they created the most difficult three days we've expereinced traveling! All because we couldn't travel through the region (a good thing we didn't incidently, because fighting broke out the day we would have been on the road). The three hour ride to Raxualt was relatively uneventful. We hopped off the bus and were surrounded by rickshaw drivers shouting crazy prices. We huddled together and opted to walk away from the crowd and grab a rickshaw driver along the way. We found two drivers near the river and after having to yell at a driver who would not go away, we agreed on a price and asked them to take us over the border. During the 5 k ride, I felt very uncomfortable because we had chosen a cycle rickshaw. i felt bad having this old man with no shoes pedal me over the border. I mentally decided to pay him double his origional asking price. When the driver stopped, it appeared we had reached the railroad on the Indian side. but, we hadn't gone through customs yet . . . we decided to pay and figure it out after. As we got off the rickshaw we were again surrounded by drivers shouting. They yelled that we had to pay the driver twice what I was paying him (which was already twice what we had agreed) we argued, gave him a tiny bit more, and walked away. As it turned out, our fears were confirmed. We had illegally entered India! Angry and annoyed, we decided to walk back until we found the immigration office. About 2 km away, we found the office and our paperwork was processed. We asked around and were told the only way to get to Patna (next point of transit) was by bus. We trudged to the bus station and as we walked realized Raxault was the worse place on earth. Men followed me and stood too close, despite Tom and Mike's presense, everyone tried to cheat us, and it was dirty, smelly, ugly, and ridicuously hot. It turned out, other parts of the town had been some of the hardest hit with flooding, but we saw no signs of this. The bus to Patna was supposed to leave right after we arrived, however the schedules had changed and it would not leave for another 8 hours. So, we sat in the bus depot and since there was no food anywhere, we ate potato chips and cookies for lunch/dinner. It was a miserable time and we were constantly harasses. At one point we saw two other westerners who confessed they had paid for a tour of Raxault! We opted not to continue to hang out with them, because they were clearly stupid. :) Finally, at 9pm we were able to get on the bus. They turned on a movie so loudly it physically hurt my ears. Tom had to argue with the driver to turn it down and when the man turned the movie off, the three white people (us) were heckled and sneered at. Eventually, we were able to reach a compromise. The bus left an hour late and drove for 30 minutes and stopped. I was glad because I had to pee. However, I was unable to because everytime I tried to duck behind a bush, men would follow me (something that has never happened before . . and I have had to pee in public A LOT while traveling). Finally, Tom and Mike had to make a wall around me so i could hide from the intense stares and close proximity of men that made me feel frightened. It was dark and I felt very unsafe. As it turned out, a strike was blocking the road. The 3 hours we sat there did give us enough time to sit outside the bus while the movie finsihed. At the end we got a tip that there was in fact a train! But, we couldn't get the 1 km to the train without walking, and we agreed that was a bad idea. We were so annoyed because we had wanted a train in the first place. As we waited I found an entry for the region in the tour book. It warned never to travel at night due to bandits and for women never to walk alone . . . awsome! But, after the bus driver collected 500 rupees from the bus passengers, the strikers were bribed into letting us pass. The ride was dirty and hot and terrile but we arrived in Patna at 5am, in time for the 6am train. As it turned out, the train was not running until 2pm. We were a day behind schedule, but figured out how to make it up and were feeling okay because we survived Raxault. We decided to get a hotel room for the few hours so we could shower and nap. We flagged two rickshaws and made sure they agreed to take us to our hotel. They agreed and 15 minutes later they tried to drop us at a different hotel which was 10 times the price! We argued that they had to take us to our hotel or we wouldn't pay them (in a lot of places, drivers get paid a commission to bring tourist to a hotel whether they want to be there or not). The owneer of the hotel came out, told is in the same conversation that our hotel did not exist, was a new hotel, and did not take foreigners. Tom finally had to call him a liar and the hotel owner stormed off in a huff. This lasted about 20 minutes, Suddenly, this kind man rode up on his bike and translated for us. He insited teh men take us to our hotel and he rode alongside us until we got the the correct place. He wasd our one shining light in the whole ordeal. When the drivers dropped us, they demanded extra monye because they had "driven out of their way" we were so angry! Our helper translated our anger but eventually we just paid the men a little more so our helper could go home. We were steaming! We got a sticky room, showered, slept, and had to pull ourselves out of bed to make the train. As it turned out, we had purchased unreserved tickets, instead of seats, This meant we had to fight our way into the car and would not have a seat for the 15 hour train ride. We were prepared to do this, until we realzed that pilgrams who were Shiva devotees (who dress in orange and are everywhere) were using our train. This meant it was even more crowded and some even sat on the roof! In addition, we had been at the wrong track and some random guy asked if he could help us. This made us late to the train and even harder to get on. He took us to the correct train and told us to get in on 1st class. People talked to the conductor and we were given three bunks together. As we got situated, a different man came and said it would cost 4000 rupees for our upgrade. We said it was too much and when I found the conductor he said it was actually 2500. While not as much as the random swindler had tried, that was still too much. So, we left Mike in the expensive seats and Tom and I tried to find space in other cars. We met some really nice people who helped us translate and pointed out the floood waters out the train window. It was to the tops of trees in some places. Eventually, we found out that there just weren't any other seats. It turned out, Mike had made nice with the man in the 1st class compartment and he was a conductor. He suggested we might be able to "pay less" for the seats. i took the hint and we agreed on a fair "tip" (1000) So, for 1000 rupees, we got to stay in first class, met some really nice people, and were going to make it to New Jalipguri and onto the next jeeep to Pelling at 6am. We were so relieved! When we arrived at the train station, the office was closed until 8am and we wanted to buy our tickets for our trip to Varanasi after Pelling. We decided to eat and wait for the counter to open. We approached drivers to get quotes on a price to the jeep stand 4 km away and most told us all were "finished". This confused us. Few shops were open and the few rickshaws quoted ridicuously high prices. When the office opened, we realized we couldn't buy the ticket we wanted. We were annoyed at the wasted time and tried to find a car. Soon we realized what "finished" meant. There was a 24 hour strike. All transportation (except trains) was down and most shops were closed. We deflated. We decided we could at least do internet while we waited but it was closed due to the strike too. Eventually we got a tip that a train left at 11am for the part of town where the jeep stand was. However, we kept getting bad information and I think missed several of the trains. We finally got on a train at 5:30pm. In the interum Tom and I went for a walk to see if we could find anything open, and when we turned a corner saw an angry mob pull a rickshaw driver and his passenger out of the rickshaw for what we can only assume was crossing the picket line. They yelled and screamed and we fled. We never saw anyone get hit but we didn't stick around to find out. THEN, we found a restuarant in the station that had a small airconditioned room and cheap prices. They welcomed us and we ordered. The food arrived and was delicious. All of a sudden, we heard screaming and chanting. The indian man in the room with us jumped up and said "Okay, you should leave"/. I looked up and the kitchen staff was fleeing. We took two giant bites of food and ran out the back door The manager assured us we were okay, but we paid as the mob entered the restuaramnt demnanding that it close. No damamge was done and no one was hurt but it was intense enough to discourage our re-entry. Which, I suppose was the goal of the protesters. We tried to act tough for eachother, but I think we all were terriblly nervous for teh next hour or so as the protesters moved from track to track screaming and chanting. We were never clear on what they were protesting for. Some said better educationa nd health care for teh lower castes, some said to protest a rickshaw tax, and otehrs said it was "because they are lazy anbd hate to work" haha. We think it was probably the second one. We met a family who had been trapped in Nepal a few weeks back for three days, in the jungle, without food, water, or lodging because of the guerillas. This made us really glad we had opted for this option . . even though the guerillas still mananged to screw with us. We were now 3 days behind schedule which meant we had to cut out some ruins on Khajuraho which we had all been looking forward to. We ended up getting a room after pricing jeeps for the next day in the part of town with the jeep stand. We were told we could get a jeep at 6am the next day. okay this entry is over. We had an amazing time in Sikkim and everything went much better after this. I have to go catch my train right now, though, so I won't be able to write about it right now. I should have internet again on weds. The next two stops will be problem free and away from all of this craziness!!! I wrote about this now, instead of waiting until i get home, because I know we were fine the whole time and will continue to be fine. No worries. 8-12-07 After I made the last entry, we wandered around Kathmandu for a bit and realized every dance club was a strip club haha. So, we decided to book our trip to the park, eat, and go to bed. I had planned the itinerary out pretty well. The trip we were taking would include transportation (8 hours or so) to Chitwan National Park, cover two nights with full board, and various attractions. The tour ended with transportation to any city in Nepal. All this was just $55. This was great because we wanted to cross into India and we figured we would get dropped at the border, about 5 hours from our newest destination. However, when we tried to book the ticket, we were informed that there were some Nepali Guerrillas fighting in the exact region we would need to travel through to get to that particular border crossing. After some discussion, we decided we would cross through Raxault, take a bus to Patna that night (8 hours), end in New Jalipurgi (5 hours), stay overnight, and the next morning grab a jeep to Pelling, our destination (5 hours). We had no idea there was unrest in eastern Nepal. Yay for American interational media coverage. With solid plans we woke early and a travel agent on a motor bike led us to a bus filled with Western and Chinese tourists. We were loaded on the uncomfortable bus and headed to Chitwan. The drive was beautiful. We saw the Himalyan snow-covered peaks and some incredible hill side views. When we arrived in Chitwan it was scorching hot. Two tour guides met us at the bus and loaded us into a truck. We rode to our hotel and chit-chatted with the two men (one was a guide in training). Our hotel was a cute little plot of land with little bungalow huts and a small restaurant. We were fed an amazing meal and a free Fanta and briefed on the trip. After a rest, we were taken on a tour of the village and shown how the indigenous people make their homes from mud and cow manure.It was very interesting. I was amazed how similar village life is across cultures. That night we had another tasty meal and slept early (though Mike had a brief battle with two gaint man-eatting spiders using camp soap, candle wax, and DEET haha). The next day we slept through the alarm, barely made breakfast and rushed to our elephant safari. It was great! The three of us rode on top of an elephant as it trudged through the forest (some annoying tourist kept singing but eventually their elephant went a different direction). While on the safari we saw a rhino and a peacock! It was really cool. The safari was too short (only an hour) but the elephant walked us back to our hotel which was kind of cool. The elephant driver even let me drive the elephant for part of the ride! After the safari we were taken to the elephant bathing grounds. It was the huge section of river and there were about 10 elephants being cleaned. We were motioned to the water and told to get in to help wash. We hopped in clothes and all and were instructed to climb, bareback, onto the giant creature. After we were all in place, the elephant stood, filled his truck with water, and proceeded to spray us with elephant snot-water over and over again. In retrospect it was gross, but it was really incredible!!! The elephant walked a bit then following the commands of its trainer began to rock violently back and forth. I screamed and nearly fell. Mike caught me. Then I saw Tom sliding and next thing I knew he was in the water. He stood up quickly and laughed just as Mike and I were throwm from the elephanat too. It was crazy!!! The trainer than had the elephant lift us with its truck onto its head like in the jungle book and then the elephant shook us off again. It was such a great experience and a ton of fun. After the elephant bath, we had lunch, rested, then went on a canoe ride. On the canoe ride we saw these really cool crocodiles with skinny snouts. At the end of the canoe ride, we visited the elephant breeding grounds. Mike bought elephant biscuits and pretty soon we had two baby elephants attaching us with their trunks, trying to eat the biscuits. It was both amazingly fun and terrifying at the same time. One seemed to have a cold or something and kept wiping a snout like material all over us. After dinner, our tour guide arrived pretty tipsy and announced we would see traditional music and dancing. He had arranged with the boys who worked at the hotel to play drums, cymbals, sing, and dance. It was so much fun! They taught each of us the dance moves and then invited us to show them some dancing. Tom and I did what we could remember from our wedding tap dance, Tom did some break dancing, and we all sang some American songs. We went to bed feeling great about our stay in Nepal. The next morning, we woke up and were put on a bus headed for Raxault, India. That's all for Nepal . . . more adventures to follow 8-3-07 Hey everyone! I wanted to first say we have not been affected by the flooding here in India. I just read about the death toll on CNN.com and its amazing that these deaths are happening so near to where we are (we haven't been hearing about it even). When we were in Agra there was some flooding (about knee deep in parts) but none of the devastation that I just read about. I feel really sad for the people who are suffering right now, but wanted to make sure you all knew we were safe. Now, for the pleasant updates. After we left Dharamalsa, we headed to Amritsar. Amritsar is home to the holiest sight for Sikhs. Tom studied the Sikh religion in undergrad and has been fascinated by the religion since then. Sikhs have 5 items they wear as signs of devotedness (a turban, uncut hair/beard, short pants under their clothes, a comb, and a weapon). The weapons are often small knives in the states, but here they ranged from spears, to swords, to daggers. The town was busy and loud but I enjoyed it. We were able to take a taxi to the border with Pakistan and watched the changing of the guard at sunset. It was a fun ceremony that was choreographed between both sides. The India side would yell and chant patriotic slogans and wave the India flag while the guards did high-kick marching and the same was happening on the Pakistani side. In the end the guards from both sides opened their respective gates and shook hands. The colors where beautiful on both sides because women were in a seperate sections and the traditional clothing on each side created a sea of color. On the way to the border we visited 2 Hindu temples. In the second temple, we crawled through a maze of different statues of Hindu gods with our Sikh guide. In the end, we were directed to two seated men, they dabbed our foreheads with red dye, put flowers over our heads, and gave us edible sweet as a form on communion. The Sikh went through the ceremony as well and afterwards he explained to us that we had all been blessed by Shiva. It was really neat. We also visited a memorial to many Indians who were slaughtered in an attack by British forces during colonial times. However, the best part about the stay was the Sikh's Golden Temple. The temple was a square building in the middle of a giant moat. The entire structure is made from smooth, white marble. We were able to stay for free in the compound in hot, uncomfortable rooms and were fed as well. Meals were amazing in taste and structure. Hundreds of people would walk through a corridor and as we walked up the steps to the dining hall, we were handed a spoon, a plate, and a bowl. At each step we were directed by friendly, smiling Sikhs. When we walked into the hall there were rows of carpets and people sat down in an orderly manner on the carpets one by one. After we sat, men with pails of food ran down the line and dropped food onto our plates If we wanted more, we cupped two hands and we were given more. Our bowls were filled with water. After we finished eatting we stood and the floor in front of us was mopped as we walked out the doors. Our dishes were taken by more smiling Sikhs and washed in an assembly line of volunteers. the food was amazing and we were instructed by sources that we must eat everything on our plate or it would be very rude. The one terrible food (still unidentified) made Tom spit up in his mouth and was difficult for us all to stomach. However, for the most part we loved everything. I loved the silent commincation I was able to have with the women from different social classes. A shy smile, or a muffled hello, really made me feel closer to the women I met. (Sikhs allow people from all castes, religions, ethinicities, and genders to come to the temple as equals). We were able to see an awesome museum which high-lighted how much Sikh's kick butt (figuratively and literally). At the temple we were able to watch the Holy Book get "put to bed" which was an elaborate ceremony where the book (which is sung all day to a music called raggas) is wrapped in cloth while people bow their heads to the ground and show respect in the form of touching their hands to each stair they cross. It was really moving. We also were able to listen to the singing of the book and were encouraged to take a dip ("bath") in the holy water surrounding the temple. Tom was even asked to drink the water. The thing that was so neat about the visit to the temples was that we never felt like tourists or intruders. Every time we tried to show respect for the religion, we were encouraged to participate further. When I went into the room to see if it was appropiate for me to try to bathe in the holy water, a nice Sikh woman spoke to me in Hindi and was clearly telling me to try to dip and that she would hold my clothes. People seemed to understand we wanted to honor them and we just felt really accepted. It was amazing! After Amritsar we left for Agra which we expected to be horrible. We had prepared ourselves to be harrassed the entire time we were there, but our first taxi driver ended up being awsome. We hired him for the day and we were able to see the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort (though it POURED the entire time at the fort), and a tomb nicknamed the "Baby Taj". At the BAby Taj we saw a bird fight, a monkey fight, and an ant battle! haha. It was really fun. After the rain storm it took us 2 hours to find a route that wasn't too flooded to take the rickshaw through. At the end, the driver asked if he could take us to see some shops (a scam we had been warned about because they get a commission for bringing us) but he was honest and upfront and told us exactly what his commission would be. He said he would get paid a small fee just for bringing us so we decided to go. In the end we bought an amazing hand made rug (yeah yeah . . . . we fell for the racket . . . but we got a good deal and Tom has been aching for a rug for years). We really feel like our driver made our trip to Agra. We had a really great time. Today we took a train to Delhi and flew to Kathmandu, Nepal. It is gorgeous here!!! We are really enjoying it. It is much calmed and cleaner than India (but i still dig India). It is a nice change of pace to be here. Tomorrow we will ride down south and do a jungle safari on an elephant! We might see Rhinos and tigers (maybe!) Yay India and Nepal! 7-31-07 Wow! What a trip so far! India is a fine fine place. Mike arrived shortly after I sent the last email and has been traveling with us. He's traveled in Europe before, but never in the developing world. He seems to be adapting just fine. One of the places we hope to visit is a part of the country called Sikkim. To travel here, you need a special visa. We spent days at the Indian consulate in the US trying to get the visa, and eventually they just wrote a note at the bottom of our passports. This seemed strange, so we spent Mike's first day, trying to confirm that the visas were valid. We were sent to a government office and told to reapply. After 3 hours of waiting, we were called and told our visa WAS valid. This was very frustrating, so we decided to go to the national Sikkim tourist office. When we arrived it was closed, but the staff took pity on us and let us interrupt their tea to talk to us. They told us the visa was valid . . . but who knows. Because of this confusion, we decided to reverse our travel plans and go to Sikkim last. We had planned to volunteer there, but I had found volunteer opportunities in other parts of the country. So, we decided to head to the Himalayas to a small Buddhist town called Dharmasala. As it turns out, Dharamasala is the greatest place on earth. Admittedly, I did not know much about the area before arriving, but now i am in love. Dharmasala is where the Dalai Lama lives, where the Tibetan government in exile is located, and where thousands of refugees settle after making the 30 day long trek through the Himalayas (with threat of a shoot to kill policy by Chinese military) in an attempt to escape their own country that is being occupied by China. I have learned so much about the Tibetan struggle and it makes me so angry! By best accounts, in around 1953, China offered to help "backwards Tibet" gain some infrastructure. they offered to help build roads and schools etc. Tibetans were happy about this and allowed the Chinese government into the country. In 1959, Chinese military launched a surprise attack and forcefully took over Tibet. Believing an assassination attempt was going to happen, the Dalai Lama escaped to India. The Chinese governement instituted a "cultural revolution" in which they destroyed Buddhist temples, burned ancient buddhist texts, and took over the monastaries in Tibet. Since then, over 1 million people have been killed and hundreds of thousands have escaped and many have been imprisioned as political prisioners. In Tibet, Tibetans face life in an occupied country. China is encouraging people to move to Tibet. there are now 3 million Tibetans in Tibet and 5 million Chinese. Natural resources are being destroyed, nuclear waster is being stored in Tibet territories, and Tibetans are not allowed basic human rights (free speech, equal treatment, medical care, education, etc). Right now, several Tibetans are on day 25 of an indefinite hunger strike because the 2008 Olympics will be held in China. Tibetans want to have their independence or want other countries to boycott the games. The oldest protester is 75 years old. The Chinese government even kidnapped the child that is next in line as a religious leader. http://www.freetibet.org/ Here's some more info In Dharamasala, we decided we wanted to stay as long as possible. As a result we deciedd we wanted to volunteer here. We were able to find several programs that thought english to Tibetans. As a result, they held nightly english conversation sessions. Every night we would go and sit with a different Tibetian and help them practice their english. It was amazing. I worked with a buddhist monk, a former political prisioner, a man whose brother was a monk who had participated in a protest and had been kicked out of the monastery by the Chinese government, a 20 year old girl who wants to study hard so she can go to Harvard, and several young women in nursing school who miss their mothers. It was incredible. Each person we met was passionate about the Tibet issue, thoughtful, open about their experiences, and incredibly brave. All had crossed the mountains in groups of about 40, and saw many people die along the way. This was a great way to volunteer because I really felt like was providing a service AND I got so much out of it because of all that I learned. Besides volunteering, we really experienced this sleepy town. Since it is so heavily Buddhist there were a lot of great things to experience. We took a yoga class, had massages, had acupuncture (which gave me a migraine), attended a Buddhist mediciation session and lecture given by a high ranking Buddhist lama, visited the Tibetan Parliament, saw several buddhist temples, played near a waterfall (where all of the Indians wanted to take pictures with us), attempted a Sitar and Tabla performance (amazing!), and took a Tibertan cooking class from a very interesting Tibetan refugee. We also climbed to the top of a mountain in the Himalayas! It took about 9 hours round trip and was incredible!!!!! One of the most amazing things was we decided, instead of staying in a hotel, we would stay in a monastery. So, we stayed in the monastery which was down many many stone steps (about a 15 minute walk down) that had an incredible view of the mountains. It was magical! &NBSP;< DIV> Tomorrow we head out to Amristar which is where the Golden Temple is (the Sikh holy sight). We will stay there tomorrow and leave at 4pm the next day. At 4pm we will take an overnight train to Agra.
10:18 AM
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Sunday, July 22, 2007
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Tanzania
7-25-07
Hi all! The trip to Tanzania is coming to a close. I did not love Tanzania as much as Ghana or Rwanda, but I still haven't gotten my fill. I wish the stay here were a bit longer.
We have continued the orphanage work and are enjoying the kids (though they seem intent on breaking my glasses before we leave the country) and we are starting to recognize the neighbors at sight. We learned a few Swahili words and that makes things a lot easier. People here are less educated than the other African countries we have visited so it has been harder to develop real tight relationships with any local people. But, our friend Billy, has been an essential help and we were really happy to have seen him while we were here.
We did a few days of tourism and traveled north, just south of the Serengeti. We arrived (with Billy's great directions) with little problem and got off the bus in a town called Arusha. We met a girl on the bus who asked if we wanted to share a cab and so we all traveled to a nearby hotel. The travel book had warned this town was filled with people trying to scam people into paying for fake safaris. I assumed it couldn't be any worse than anywhere else we had visited. It was insane!!! As soon as we arrived at the hotel we were mobbed by "touts" (people trying to lure you to a shop for a commission . . . . sometimes legitimate but usually a scam). My firm rebuffs were ignored. We took refuge in the hotel and decided to go into town to look for a one-day safari for us and a 5 day for our new friend. We were literally swarmed by several men who followed us or walked right in front of us as we walked from shop to shop acting as if they had lead us there! It was insane! The only thing I can compare it to is a border crossing in Latin America . . . . but for an entire town!
We were able to finally find a trip to Ngorngoro crater for a decent price and were really excited. We grabbed a taxi and retreated to the hotel and ate at the closest place nearby to avoid hassle . . . which happened to be a pizza place. It was frustrating because I felt like I could not be friendly to anyone. The second I smiled, I was mobbed! It was craziness!
The next day, we woke up early and a 4 by 4 jeep picked us up to drive to the crater. It was apparently once the top of a volcano and has a permanent water source with grass and so it is filled with animals. On our one day safari we saw an elephants, hundreds of wildebeast, zebras, hippos, ostriches, flamingos, storks, and lions!!!!! We saw female lions prowling the plains and male lions sleeping. It was awesome! Tom had hoped to see a black rhino, but there were none spotted that day. We were able to stand in the jeep with the roof off and feel the wind on our faces as we rambled through the yellow grasses. It was beautiful!
The next day was not as successful. We heard that the cultural tour of the Maasi village was particularly awsome (turns out our source had traveled on market day and we did not). Our tour kind of sucked and was awkward and uncomfortable. The Maasai people often wear red cloth resembling a blanket, have stretched earlobes, lots of jewelry, and jump really high when they dance. Once woman, dressed in typical Tanzania clothes, offered to change into a traditional outfit. She ran to her home, changed and posed for photos. It was very awkward and strange haha . . . but the walk was beautiful and it was nice to see some Tanzania village life. We also got to enter a Massi home which houses the wife, a fire for cooking, and a cow!
After that we hopped a dola-dola (like a tro-tro) to Moshi where Mt. Kilimanjaro is. It was cloudy so we couldn't see the mountain. We had planned to spend the afternoon walking around the park, but it was going to cost $120 plus a guide! It was too much so we decided to walk down from the gate to the base of the mountain (about 5 km) and were still sore haha. While walking down we saw a waterfall and saw some more local life. It was a pleasant walk, but I was disappointed about missing the chance to walk on the mountain.
The next day we traveled back to Dar and our bus broken down for 5 hours! We were at the side of the road in a beautiful spot but it was filled with thorns and didn't have food or water. Tom and I explored the land, played baseball with a rock and stick tom found, and played hangman. It was annoying but also a relaxing laid back time.
We leave tomorrow fro India after a day of volunteering. Fun times!!!
Pictures will be up soon and I fixed the problem with the Ghana pics.
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/558539930YnAFRI
7-13-07
We have been in Tanzania for a few days and are enjoying ourselves. Billy met us at the airport and gave us a great introduction to Dar. We are staying in a cute hostel with running water! We are very happy. We are tired from Ghana and its nice to have a home base. We went to the beach yesterday with Billy We saw some old German ruins from colonial days past and ruins from the oldest mosque in eastern africa. It was a nice relaxing day with a lot of walking.
We started at the orphnage today. The kids are hungry for attention and have developed many maladaptive ways of gaining attention. But they are all super cute! The orphange also houses some developmentally disabled people. 5 or 6 are clarly autistic. I wish I was here along enough to be able to get my hands on them on teach them some skills. Two are deemed "unmanagable" and are tied to their wheel chairs. It breaks my heart to be in the room with them.
Overall, Tanzania is a lot like Ghana . . . but a little rougher. It is pretty and people have been very friendly. Muslim women dress in a more middle eastern headware style than in Ghana and there is a large native Indian population.
On weds we will go see Mt. kilimanjaro and hopefully go on a small safari. I am excited to hopefully see lions.
I uploaded some pictures
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/558539930YnAFRI
2:25 AM
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Monday, July 16, 2007
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Ghana 2007
Hi all! We are in Tanzania now. We are staying in the capital, Dar Es Salaam. We have a friend here, Billy, who we met in Rwanda last summer. He hooked us up at an orphanage for the mornings and a school for street children in the afternoons.
A quick recap on the Ghana trip. Overall it was great. Peter, Catherine, and Stephen were super! No one was seriously sick or hurt and everyone complained as little as possible when unexpected things happened (like the toilet in larbanage recently vanishing . .. . wow!).
The trip started off well with safe flights. We met Faisal at the airport and went for a drink. It was so great to see him. We giggled about past memories and he told us he had married a Canadian girl in April! Apparently they lived together for a year and married right before she left to go back to Canada. Currently he is waiting for the visa paperwork to go through. We were so shocked! We had no idea. We are so happy for him. There is no one else we would wish happiness for more than Faisal. It will be great to have him on our side of the world too! He has grown alot these past two years and was far more worldly than the last timer we saw him. He was happier too. That made me smile.
When Tom's parents arrived, Catherine's luggage was missing! We had to keep moving so, unfortunately, we could not wait for it. As it turns out, it never made it to Accra (even after they left for the US!) I loaned her some of my clothes and we were able to make do. She was a good sport about it. When Stephen went to latin america with us, he lost his luggage too! We must be bad luck.
We went straight to Tamale on a summer long bus ride and then to Larabanga. It was interesting to be back there. Everyone was happy to see us and it was great to see our old friends. We were surprised that Zenabu had not grown much and the clothes we bought her were WAY too big. But it was fun to see her and everyone else.
The next day we went to Mole National Park and did a walking safari. We saw elephants, monkeys, and a bunch of different animals. It was great! AT the end of the safari, Peter started acting strange and walking unsteadily. We had no idea what was wrong. Eventually, we arrived at a pool and he just jumped in with his socks on. After an hour or so he seemed back to normal. In retrospect, I think he may have suffered heat stroke! It was a good thing he jumped into that pool!
When we returned to the village we greeted our friend, Afishata. He giggle and told us she would see us in a hour. About an hour later I left my room and walked over to her. She looked like she was ready to cry. I asked what was wrong and she began to sob. He "senior father" (her father's oldest brother) had just died. I walked with her as she sobbed and realized he was also the head Iman in the village. We entered a courtyard and there were hundreds of people sobbing. I began to cry as well. After a few minutes I saw Afishata had many hands to console her so I left because I did not want anyone to think I was being a tourist to everyones grief. The village was in mourning the rest of our stay.
Before leaving Larabanga, we got Zenabu's families' permission to travel with her in Ghana. We also set up a new way for her to go to school and get fed meat and veggies once a day. We hope that it will work out. We took her all over Ghana and it was great! Catherine bought her "The very hungry caterpillar" and Tom and I got her some markers and she read and colored the whole time!
When we left Larabanga, we went to Tamale and volunteered a two orphanages. The first orphanage was very nice. It had many staff and only 11 children. There were clean clothes and a lot of food. Overall it was a pleasant atmosphere. We fed and played with the babies there.
The other orphanage was more like the one in Rwanda, only poorer. The staff was doing its best, but there were not enough supplies. Diapers were only changed 3 times a day, so by noon the floor was covered in urine and babies were soaking wet. The building was a dimly lit and there were not nearly enough staff. The smell was so bad I had to leave frequently because it made me light headed. But, the kids were cute and Zenabu had fun playing with kids her own age.
In Tamale, we also traveled 3 hours to a waterfall. We were stopped by police half way there and our taxi driver was forced to pay a very large bribe! We were so angry! However, the waterfall experience was so much fun that we quickly forgot our anger.
Zenabu had never really been out of her village before. Our hotel was two stories tall and she was so frightened at first! When she saw the waterfall she nearly cried. However, by the end, she was running and swimming in the falls. The rest of the trip she was saw "Waterfall!" and mime some of her water games.
We also went to see the house that Faisal was building in Tamale. It is great! He has a little plot of land and is making a western style home. The walls are nearly finished. Faisal is such a neat guy!
We also went to Shanga Village and found out what was happening there. This was the village we bought the well for instead of buying party favors for the wedding. The actual results were sketchy until this trip. As it turned out, the government had tried to make wells. However, the water was too deep underground and they could not access it. As a result, the village had a meeting and decided they wanted their current water source expanded and cleared. As it was, the water was muddy and dried up. When it went dry they had to share the water hole with the cows. What they did was remove all of the mud from the center of their water hole so the water was cleaner and made the hole bigger. As a result, they have water there all year round. They seemed very happy to see us when we arrived.
After our time in Tamale, we went Kumasi and visited the town and a very laid back art market. It was a nice relaxing afternoon. Then we went to Cape Coast. At Cape Coast we took tom';s family on the tour of the slave castle and Zenabu tried to poop in the middle of the walkway (you can take the girl out of the village but never the vaillage out of the girl haha). In Cape Coast, Zenabu saw the ocean for the first time. We took her out to the water and she loved the waves. She would scream "Ocean, COME!" when the waves moved away. It was so cute!!!
While in Cape Coast, Tom learned that he has been hired to teach high school english at a high school in southeast DC. The school is 99.71 percent black! (there is one latino kid). He is nervous but also very very very excited. Yay Tom!
We also visited the rainforest and everyone walked across the rope bridges (even Zenabu). Everyone was super brave and it was very very beautiful.
We ended the trip at the beach. We played a lot on the water with Zenabu, walked around town, and generally relaxed. It was a really pleasant time. We dealt with Zenabu's first tempoer tantrum but after about 30 minutes it ended and I did some positive practice of following directions witrh lots of praise and we did not have any more problems. She's so amazing!
We said goodbye to Zenabu in Accra on our last day. I sang her a song and gave her lost of hugs. We told her she was wonderful and she needed to go to school and we thought she was so smart. She walked away, holding hands with Faisal, down the street to catch a taxi, and never looked back. She is going to just fine.
6:13 AM
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Friday, April 06, 2007
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New Orleans
Wow. So, New Orleans was wild. I knew people who had visited and they'd said it was like the third world . . I had always shrugged it off. These people had never been to Africa or Latin America. New Orleans was not as bad as Africa . . . but it was worse than most places we had visited in Latin America.
We were able to work on gutting homes, painting homes, and keeping lawns clear. We met many survivors and their stories made me cry.
A lot of the actions the government is taking doesn't make sense to me right now. It seems really wrong and that makes me angry. I won't ramble here about my thoughts, but if anyone wants to talk about it feel free to email any questions.
Our trip touched us so much we are considering canceling the India wing of our trip this summer and spending the time in New Orleans instead.
Here are our pictures
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/558539930YnAFRI
5:19 PM
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