Bob Malone

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Jul 24, 2008

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Sunday, February 24, 2008

The Germ & I
Category: Music

Greetings from me and my colony of influenza germs. I am sitting here waiting patiently for the cold-medicine to kick in and trying desperately to think of a witty comment that will hold your attention in this information-saturated world. Nothing is coming to mind. Probably my best bet would be to try again once I've reached that peak of delirium one reaches right before the Ny-Quil puts one down for the count. But my better impulses warn against it. Oh well, I'll just have to go directly to the crass commercial pitch, in which I attempt to entice you, my most kindest of fans, to attend my upcoming performances so I can continue on through life with my livelihood intact. So here goes: In just a week and a half, I head to the Southeast to play the Evening Muse in Charlotte, NC, The Swallow at the Hollow in Roswell, GA (on the outer edges of that Atlanta sprawl), and The Garage in Winston-Salem, NC. All very cool places to go. Swallow at the Hollow is a Nashville-style in-the-round type of thing, and I will be in said round for two nights with two really great singer/songwriters. My good friend Kristy Jackson (who wrote Reba McEntire's monster hit "Take It Back," among other things), and the lovely and talented Lauren Lucas. Should be quite a weekend. In Charlotte I do a full headlining set after the Tosco House Party open mic. And in Winston, I do another full set as part of the "American Music Showcase" series they do there.  Later in March, I return to Seattle for shows at the always wonderfully bizarre Moisture Festival, as well as Portland, OR and Seattle shows with The Bobs at various venues. Then I'm back in L.A. for out next big gig at The Mint on April 3. Karen Nash opens the show and we will do a nice long set shortly after. It's all listed below. I do believe that by the next time I see you, these germs will have vacated the desecrated temple that is my body ...I look forward to it!

Love, Bob

10:42 PM - 2 Comments - 2 Kudos - Add Comment

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

It’s January 22 already...where has the year gone?
Category: Music

Damn. Twenty-one days into the new year already...feels like October is right around the corner! I am feeling more mortal than usual this month. However, there is more stirring here than just the brute passage of time. We're working on a rocking new CD and it is coming along nicely - four tracks are finished and you can hear them at my MySpace page. This will most likely be followed by some cool video footage and all sorts of other new stuff. The whole CD should be done by spring. A fall Australia-New Zealand tour is being put together - I can't wait for that...I long to once again look to the sky and see the sprawl of strange and alien stars. And sip a decent Lemon Lime & Bitters. Lots of new activities on the TV and film front - I've been writing music for Paramount TV and just finished a project arranging and playing on songs for Peer Music Publishing with my good buddy Jonny Blu. This month I play Cafe Cordiale up in Shakin' Oaks, splitting the bill with my wife, and a solo concert at Theatre 150 up in Ojai, CA. The next full band show will be at Ronny Mack's Barn Dance on Feb 5 at El Cid in Silverlake. After that, I'm on the road again, as the old song says...perhaps a little more gleefully than I would have. Still, it beats workin! See you out there.

Love, Bob

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Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Bob Malone in Keyboard Magazine
Category: Music

I can remember it just like yesterday. I'm sitting on a sprung and lumpy couch at my grandmother's house in Kezar Falls, Maine. I'm thirteen years old and just beginning that long slide into adolscent alienation. And to add to that impending parental inconvenience, I have also by this time dedicated my life to the idea that I will play the piano for a living. I am reading the latest issue of Keyboard Magazine. Chick Corea is on the cover, playing a Fender Rhodes and a Minimoog, onstage with Return To Forever.  I thought to myself, I am going to be in this magazine one day!

Cut to the present. I am sitting on a slightly cat-shredded, but not at all lumpy couch in my own apartment in West Hollywood, CA. I am well past adolescent alienation and deep in the throes of an adult alienation that makes being sixteen look pretty good in retrospect. I hold in my hands the latest copy of Keyboard Magazine. Page McConnell, former Phish keyboard player, is on the cover. And there I am, on page 14...big color picture, full page of interview and glowing commentary. And I think to myself, I actually made it into this magazine!

An honest-to-God teenage fantasy come true. A minor one compared to rock stardom, or the dating of models, I agree, but still...not bad.

So I'd like to thank Richard Leiter, who wrote the story, and Michael Gallant, the associate editor of Keyboard, for making the article happen. And I'd like to thank all of you, as always, for listening.

10:49 PM - 7 Comments - 1 Kudos - Add Comment

Sunday, July 01, 2007

Reef, Roos & Blues (& Kiwis Too) - Australia/New Zealand Tour 2007

So there I was. Less than a year after my last trip there, I was once again landing at the Sydney, Australia airport. I found myself in this far-flung part of the world in 2006 to play just one blues festival (Blues on Broadbeach), but this time, I was about to embark on a full-blown tour. I really fell in love with this country when I had my first look, and this second visit did nothing to diminish that love, even though I got to know the place a lot more intimately. And as you know, sometimes intimacy can be the kiss of death. I think on this trip I got to know a little bit more of what they call the "Real Australia." Oz, warts and all. The only fault I can really find with the place is that they smoke and drink a lot more than we do here in the States. Or, more accurately, they smoke and drink like we did thirty years ago. But then again, unlike we Americans, they are not angry and tense all the time. So I do believe we may need to smoke and drink more. After all, stress'll kill you just as quick as a ciggy, a stubby, and a shot of Bundy. And you won't have had nearly as much fun. Here are the highlights:

Day 1: After 14 hours in the air, I land in Sydney. My booking agent/promoter Baiba James has sent her husband Geoff to pick me up. We can't find each other. I then try to call them on my cell phone, which, at great expense, I had activated to work in Australia. It does not work. I do eventually get in touch via pay-phone after fumbling jet-laggedly with gigantic Australian 50-cent pieces and strangely-small-by-comparison Australian two-dollar coins. Geoff and I find each other and we head back to Baiba's, where I will stay the night before getting on a train to Newcastle and beginning the tour. Later that evening, we go to the Riverside Theatre (where I will be playing the following week) to see the Henson Puppeteers' traveling road show "Puppet Up" – I think it is a great performance. Theatrical and comedy improv…with puppets, for Chrissake. As if it weren't hard enough to do that stuff without the puppets. However, there is something strange about flying 14 hours from L.A. to Sydney to see a show by…a bunch of people from L.A.. I notice that my name and likeness are prominently displayed and backlit in the theatre lobby. I am pleased. And exhausted.

Day 2: I hop a train at 10A.M. and take the two-hour ride up to Newcastle, where for the next 3 days I will play the Newcastle Blues Festival. My driver for the weekend – Peter Quinn (known to his friends and ex-girlfriends as "Quinny") – is supposed to meet me at the club where I'm playing that night, Wheelshop Blues, which, according to my detailed tour itinerary is "right next to the train station." I promptly head for the wrong side of the train station, towing luggage and sweating profusely. Eventually, Quinny and I find each other. He turns out to be a great guy, and a fellow piano player. He is originally from Scotland, which means that for the next three days, I will only be able to understand about 25% of what he is saying. They say that the Scottish speak English, but I do not believe it. We immediately head to the local music store, where I am picking up a rented keyboard. After that chore is taken care of, we head for the Newcastle ABC, where I am scheduled for a live radio performance and interview in an hour's time. Quinny knew exactly where the station was…twenty years ago. What he didn't know is that they had moved to another part of town sometime around 1994. So now we're late, driving around lost. I, of course, am not able to help in any way. Eventually we find the place, do the interview, and pile back into the van. The show that night at the aforementioned Wheelshop Blues, is not very well attended, kind of a depressing way to start the trip, but the people that run it are wonderful, and the food was outstanding.

Day 3: I awake in the truly awful Formulae 1 Motel on the outskirts of town. This is a motel chain run by people who got together and did a careful, scientific study of what amenities could be eliminated from a motel room until it was one small step above being a tent. In that, they succeeded spectacularly. I spent an hour searching for an outlet. There wasn't one. The TV and alarm clock were bolted to a shelf and wired directly into the wall, and that was all the electric gear I was getting. I spent the weekend running my laptop on battery rations. Not that I could get online. I walked, in the rain, across a deadly traffic rotary, through a park (where I had my first sighting of this trip of a flock of wild Sulfur-Crested Cockatoos, that sure cheered me up), and three long blocks to a mall where I could get a pastry and a cup of coffee. My mood was bleak, but the girl at the counter was so sweet and kind and wonderful that I could not stay bitter for long. She convinced me with a great amount of charm and expert salesmanship to try the hot-cross buns. It was almost Easter, after all. They were delicious. I gained five pounds on the spot.

The gig that night was in a rural suburb of Newcastle called Minmi (the trick they like to play on out-of-towners is to send them to "Minmi Beach"). I was to play on a stage erected in the parking lot of the Minmi Hotel (and when they say "Hotel" in Australia, they mean "pub") – decent size stage, decent lighting, good sound. The crowd was alarmingly drunk, but otherwise it looked good. I got on stage, fired up the first tune, and as if on cue, the heavens cut loose with a torrential downpour of biblical proportions. However, the crowd is really digging my set, the sound guy has me cranked to booty-shaking level, and it is looking like the makings of a memorable show. I keep the energy up and they are pressed up against the stage, beers raised aloft, asses swaying, hooting and hollering for more. Three songs in, we lose the power. Show over – gear off the stage. Shortly after, the roof of the stage begins to sag from the weight of the water. A while after that, it will collapse completely. We move the gig inside, where there is a small PA, and what was for a short time an outdoor festival show, becomes a gig in a small bar. But what the hell, it's still the same crowd – or at least the part that could fit inside. So I fire it up again. Three songs in, a guy falls out the window, it is two stories down, he is knocked unconscious by the fall, and is feared dead. Show over. An hour or so later, he comes to, and had enough pints of VB (that's Victoria Bitters, you Yanks) in him to have survived the drop unscathed. Presently, a really excellent bar band comes on to play a bunch of cool cover tunes and I end up sitting in – a great time is had by all…including me. Sometimes it's a fun to be the keyboard player in someone else's band. So liberating to be out of the spotlight! All in all, it was definitely one of those nights.

Day 4: I am supposed to do three shows today. The first being at a downtown outdoor stage at 10AM. Too early for me to be singing the blues, but the money was green, I planned to be there. It was not to be – it was still raining like we were supposed to build an ark. Show cancelled. Later on, Quinny picks me up and drives me back to Minmi Hotel for the afternoon gig. By now the whole operation, lights and PA and all, has been moved inside. The remains of the outdoor stage sit forlornly and soaking wet in the parking lot. I am hungry, and my nose leads me to meat that is being barbecued under an outdoor tent. Excellent. A sign nearby informs me that they are offering "snag sangys" – this turns out, in English, to be "sausage sandwiches" – it was tasty, in any case. And I learned some new Ozzy slang. The gig was fun, good crowd, significantly more sober this time. Sold some CDs, then we packed it up and headed across town to the Wallsend Diggers. A cavernous old hall with gambling downstairs and two stages upstairs.  We humped the gear up the stairs, met the soundguy at the "B" stage, while another band played on the "A" stage, and got the keyboard set up. Poor old Quinny, I must admit, did much of the work, my ass was still dragging from the jet lag, and he was moving at twice the load-in speed that I was. A wonderful guy, Peter Quinn…I wish he were here right now. The set was great, a good old loud over-the-top barnburner. The punters went nuts for it. And I had a very fine time playing for them. Dutch Tilders, a real legend of Ozzie blues, was on later that night. He was just wonderful. One of the best I've seen. After the show, his manager drove me back to the dread Formulae 1 so I could drop Dutch's guitar off in his room (we were all staying there, legends and non-legends alike). Dutch stayed behind at the Diggers to "play the pokies and have a few stubbies." Only Australians can make getting drunk and playing poker sound that innocent. I believe it's because they have no nasty, repressed puritanical hangover from their past to contend with, as we do. They were merely criminals, and mostly petty ones at that. And when you get right down to it, being a criminal is far more honorable than being a fundamentalist, don't you think?

Day 5: Took the train back to Sydney. I was scheduled for more live radio at the Sydney ABC. Conveniently located near the train station. I had a couple of hours to kill, so I walked down to the waterfront and had lunch in the park with the ibises and cockatoos.  I wish to boldly state right here and now that Sydney Harbor is the most beautiful city waterfront in the world. And I have seen a lot of the world. It just about makes you want to cry, it's so wonderful. The Opera House, the Harbor Bridge, the way the Southern Hemisphere sun shines off the water. It is breathtaking. I could not believe how fortunate I was to be standing there at that very moment. Would I have ever even seen this if I had never taken that first piano lesson when I was nine? Who knows? All I know is that I had never been so glad to be alive.

I headed back up to the radio station and went up to the studio. This was the biggest public radio station in Australia and very well appointed. I waited in a plush lobby with a coffee that the receptionist brought me, waiting to go on and listening to the show in progress. I was on 702 Drive with Richard Glover – very popular, very prestigious. People like Woody Allen and Bill Bryson had recently been on this show. Baiba scored big with this one! So as I sit in the lobby, I hear Richard say on-air that coming up will be Bob Malone, followed by Sister Helen Prejean. Sister Helen! My God, a legend…they made the movie "Dead Man Walking" about her and her long fight against the death penalty. This was definitely a case of going from the ridiculous to the sublime. I got my wife on the phone (it was bedtime in L.A., but Karen is a big fan of Sister Helen). She was very impressed. I went into the room where they have the grand piano, got everything squared away with the sound engineer, and then Richard Glover breezed in. We did a little interview, I played a tune, we did a little more interview, and then he was off. Short and sweet – but good. He does a great interview. There is an art to that, you know. Nothing is worse than being interviewed by someone who sucks at it. Except, of course, for not being interviewed at all. Baiba and Geoff were double parked and waiting for me outside, so I never got to meet Sister Helen Prejean, but I got to be on the same radio show as her, and that is good enough for me!

Day 6 & 7: No gigs, no radio. I spent the days with Baiba and Geoff, and in the process, we went from acquaintances to friends. This alone made it worth the trip here. I also got in a couple of rehearsals with Jan Preston. Jan is a wonderful boogie and blues pianist, singer and songwriter. A Kiwi expat living in Australia, where she has done very well on the blues festival circuit. Baiba is her agent and manager and close friend. Last year when I was here, Jan and I played together during her set at Blues On Broadbeach, and we knew that someday we would have to do some shows together. And on this tour, we would be doing three.

Day 8: First really big show of the tour. Riverside Theatre. "Four Hands Boogie" show featuring Bob Malone & Jan Preston. Baiba had put a lot of sweat and effort and love and promotional dollars into this show. This morning she is tense…and who could blame her. The radio I did on the ABC helped ticket sales quite a bit, as did the live radio shows Jan did the week before I arrived in the country. Still, we were talking about a 700-seat theatre – that is a lot of seats to fill. Jan and I drive out to Parramatta, the suburb of Sydney where the Theatre is. On the way over we have that kind of conversation that only two piano players of a certain bent can have. Jan is a fascinating person and I could listen to her talk endlessly. Well read, always possessed of an interesting turn of phrase, and at that stage of her life where she'll say pretty much exactly what she feels, unvarnished, with no punches pulled. She's also an excellent musician, of course – and that is most important of all. We arrive backstage, and walk in. I walk out to center stage, and cut loose with my favorite movie quote for a situation such as this: "this place is a fucking barn, we'll never fill it." That's from the Blues Brothers, you kids. Two shiny black grands are set up on the stage, miked and tuned, lids off. It's looking good. Soundguy is great, soundcheck is easy. Now we nervously wait. I pace a hole in the floor in my dressing room. When showtime comes, the house looks great, Better than we could have expected. Not a sellout, but close enough. The show is so much fun it's over before we know it. We each do back to back solo sets and then about 20 minutes together of boogie, blues, ragtime, and a little Bach. We close with "20 Fingers & 88 Keys," a song by Ann Rabson that Ann and I have done together a couple of times. Jan is a big Ann Rabson fan, so it was cool to bring the tune over and do it with her, too. After the show, we go out to the lobby, where CD sales are extremely brisk, and Baiba is beaming. She pulled off the hard part. Jan and I just showed up and played. A great night!

Day 9, 10 & 11: I have moved into the Parramatta Crowne Plaza, where I will reside for the next three days. I will be playing for three more nights at the Riverside Theatre, but this gig will not be nearly as glamorous or exciting. There is a comedy festival going on at the multiple venues in the theatre complex, and they have set up a stage with a piano on it in the outdoor courtyard of the theatre. I play between shows for the people while they are waiting to go in. As gigs go, it was definitely one of them. But I was working for some very nice people, and it was short. Couple of twenty-minute sets with dinner in-between, and before I knew it, I was back at the Crowne Plaza, watching pay-per-view movies on the flat-screen. Mostly I was lonely. No one to talk to, really, and there is nothing more depressing than eating alone on the road. I kill one afternoon by taking the boat ride down the Parramatta River to Sydney Harbor. I spent a happy day bopping around Sydney Botanical Gardens, checking out the birds and the people and the exotic plant life. Such a wonderful park! Also took the tour of Government House, where a very cheeky guide gave us the history lesson and a few laughs. After the final gig, I ended up hanging out with the theatre staff and the people who put the festival together and finally got to know the folks I had been working with for most of the week. And that was good. I look forward to seeing them next year!

Day 12: My final day in Sydney. Geoff gives me a tour of the scenery around Sydney and south towards Wollongong. All beautiful. Along the way, we stopped at a café and I had my first lamington – what Geoff referred to as an "iconic Ozzie cake." Said I had to try it. And of course, I did: when in Rome….As we had our final dinner together, I realized what I had not up until that point, because I had been so focused on the work – I was really going to miss these people. I still had another two weeks to go in Oz, but I would not be seeing Baiba and Geoff again til the next trip out. End of the evening, after a few glasses of wine, I got to see some photos and articles from the old days. Turns out Baiba was a well known Australian fashion designer Geoff had a single out on Warner Brothers Records in the early 70s. Who knew! My life suddenly seemed so pedestrian.

Day 13: Jan and I fly from Sydney up to Mackay, up in the tropical North, where we will be doing our Four Hand Boogie show at the Mackay Entertainment Centre. Another venue we fear will be too large for us to fill, but we'd dodged the first bullet, no reason we couldn't duck the second. Mackay Airport was perhaps the best I've ever been in, mostly because the baggage carousel was decorated like a tropical reef, with coral, shells, plastic sea turtles and rubber octopuses. I was as delighted as any six-year-old would have been. We checked into the hotel, had some dinner at a Chinese joint down the street, and then repaired to our respective rooms to crash. I was exhausted. I fell asleep to the gentle, somehow calming sound of the people lawn bowling at the Mackay Bowls just next door and outside my window. 

Day 14: Jan and I do a quick radio interview over at the Mackay ABC, and then I took a cab to the Mackay Botanical Gardens – I do a lot of dorky stuff like this on the road since I quit drinking. I can't help it, the birds and the trees and flowers keep me calm. And I need a lot of calming. Believe me. They had a delightful restaurant overlooking the gardens, which surrounded a lagoon – lots of shorebirds! I had an excellent lunch, and then took a nice long stroll around the grounds. It was a fine afternoon. Now appropriately mellowed out, I headed for sound check. The venue was beautiful, this time there was a grand and an upright instead of two grands, but otherwise, all was as usual. The place filled right up, and we had a great show. On a day like this, it's hard to believe I actually get paid to do this.

Day 15: Jan has flown home, and I am on a bus headed for Airlie Beach to play at a place called Banjo's. this is about two hours north of Mackay. It is very hot, humid and tropical here. This is the Australia's Florida…the beach is the thing. I arrive at the venue, which is classic open-air beach bar. The owner and her best-friend-since-childhood/head bartender recognize me right away. They immediately shower me with hospitality, and do their best to get me on "Airlie Beach Time" which is, of course, island time. I know it well. I did once live in New Orleans, where they have this sort of thing down to an artform. I settled in, forcibly slowed my pulse, shrugged off the weight of my ambitions, and let the day take me where it would. Mon soon come. We sat at a picnic table under a large coconut palm for quite a while – there was much talking, smoking and drinking. I did not drink, because I have been sober for six years, but I did have a nice slow cigar. The sound people showed up, and joined us for some more smoking, drinking and talking. No one was in any hurry to get the PA set up. I wasn't sure it was going to happen at all, actually, But I did not care. I was on Airlie Beach Time. Today, I wished feverishly that I was still a drinking man. Nothing would have gone as well with this day as a cold Negra Modelo beer and a shot of Patron tequila. After a good long time, the sound guys got up, and we all moved into the club…so they could move the TV that was over the bar from the club back up the street to the club owner's house. It's a long story. A while later we got back from the house. Set up the PA, and then waited for the guy with the piano to show up. Which he eventually did. All in all, the gig was more of a fun hang with my new beach buddies than a gig. The owner is a musician herself, and she knows how we like it! As far as my set, I was instructed to "start whenever you want, and end when you feel like it…and leave plenty of time to eat!" Awesome. For a moment, I considered moving here. I did a set for the appreciative crowd. The place was like an optical illusion – it looked like it was going to be a lame beach bar kind of thing, with lots of requests for "Margaritaville" and "Brown Eyed Girl," but as soon as you started playing, it would turn into a really cool gig. During the break, the owner and her friends invited me to their table, where the biggest platter of seafood I have ever seen was laid out. We dug in. Clams and lobster and oysters and scallops and crab legs. Damn! This just did not qualify as work. And the whole time I was eating, they were all telling me how great I was. Maybe I had died in a bus wreck and this was heaven. After the second set. There was more drinking and smoking and talking back at the club owner's house. At some point, I left them to it and fell asleep in the guest bedroom.

Day 16: I am up at 5:30 am to catch the bus back to Mackay, and the plane to Brisbane, where my wife waits for me. She is still on a Qantas flight from L.A. when I wake up, but she will be there I when I get there. On the bus, in a half-awake stupor, I write a song based on something the club owner said to me. As of now, two months later, that song has already been recorded, and awaits a few overdubs and a mix. We wrote a song together, and she doesn't even know yet! Karen (that's my wife) and our good Oz friends Gerry and Carmen Blain greet me at the airport wearing blinking bunny ears…this is clearly Gerry's doing – he's just that way. Gerry is the radio guy that I met last year when I was here at Broadbeach. He of the "hundred-dollar phone call" – you can read all about it in the blog about the 2006 Australia trip. Hey, I just noticed that my spellcheck doesn't recognize the word "blog" – what's up with that? Sorry for the digression. Anyway, the four of us bonded as close as could be, and we were going to be together for most of the rest of this trip. We headed for their house, about an hour and a half north of Brisbane. They live in a spectacular location overlooking ethereal misty mountains and lakes and a primeval sub-tropical forest. It's like they have their own private nature reserve in the back yard. And lots of wildlife is always stopping by. We hit the pool and have a spectacular barbecue. So much meat at one time I have never seen! Tomorrow Karen and I would head for Heron Island for four days, before resuming the tour in Brisbane.

Day 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22: We bid Gerry and Carmen a temporary goodbye at the train station and take the train up to Gladstone, where the boats to Heron Island depart from. The next morning, we are on a vomitous three-hour boat ride out to Heron. The sea is so rough, everyone on the boat is tossing cookies. To the right of me, to the left of me. Jesus. Finally, Karen let loose and shouted at her shoes. I was terribly nauseous (this after taking two Dramamine), but determined not to hurl. God, I hate to puke. I held on like grim old death, and managed to make the trip with my cookies intact. As soon as we got off that boat, we ran to the checkout desk and immediately ponied up the massive amount of scratch required for the helicopter ride back. We got the last two seats. It was worth every penny.

Other than that, Heron was exactly the same as it was the year before, and that is why we like it. Except, this time we were going as certified divers, and were able to dive the Great Barrier Reef twice. And the baby sea turtles were hatching and making their way to the sea. And yes, it was just as wonderful as you think it is.

Day 23: We took that fabled helicopter right to Gladstone Airport, flew from there to Brisbane, and were taken by Gerry and Carmen directly to Brisbane Jazz Club, where I would be playing that night. After soundcheck, I strolled out back, where there was a deck overlooking the lovely Brisbane river and skyline. Karen said: "look honey, there are baby sharks in the river!"  I looked down, and as far as I could tell from my view of the inky depths, there did indeed appear to be sharks in the Brisbane River. I began to expound, using tidbits of aquatic knowledge I had learned on the Discovery Channel. "They must be bull sharks, only bull sharks can swim in brackish water up into rivers!" About that time, the lead singer of the band that was on after me that night ambled by and said: "I think those are catfish, mate. Sharks don't have whiskers." Karen, Gerry and Carmen then erupted in laughter. I'd been had. Possibly worse than last year when Karen had been had by a tale of the mythical Australian "drop bears." Shit. I can't believe I fell for that. Other than the regrettable bull shark incident, the gig was great. Sold a lot of CDs and made a lot of new fans. Someone even filmed me playing there on their cell phone and posted it on YouTube. Ah, technology. Can't ever have an off night these days, you never know who's filming you with their cell phone. After the gig, we headed to Pineapple Hotel, where we ate very large steaks and caught a set by astounding Australian blues guitarist Mojo Webb, who I would be playing with the next night.

Day 24: Back in Brizzy for a second night in a row, I'm here to play at Harry's place: Legends. Harry is the self described "cheeky bastard" that I met the year previous at Blues On Broadbeach. He showed up at my first gig there with his video camera and proceeded to document the entire festival week. He has been having concerts in the basement of his house for years, and pretty much everyone in the blues world that passes through, or lives in Australia, has played there. Pretty amazing when you think about it. You just can't say no to Harry. Last year he told me: "You'll never become somebody if you don't play at my place!" Having been on a lifelong quest to be somebody, I perked up. "We do blues concerts and a sausage sizzle. We'll have you in next year and you'll be somebody!" It was all delivered in ironic jest, but still, you never know what's going to finally put you over the edge. We arrived for soundcheck and I got my first look at the place.  No WAY we can do a gig in here, I thought. It really was the basement of a guy's house. And not big either. Harry had sold 80 tickets. I simply could not picture 80 people in this space. "Oh, sometimes we get over a hundred!" he said. There was a PA, a small stage, a bar along the wall, and an open space where it looked like about 20 people could stand. In addition, one entire side of a vintage car was mounted on one wall, and the front end of the same car was attached to the wall stage right. Later on, 80 people did indeed file into the room. And boy was it a great show! It is a very fun group of folks that show up at Harry's place to see a show. Harry, hearing that my wife's music has somewhat of a country bent to it, told her: "I want you to sing, but none of that fucking bullshit country music! This is a blues place!" He was just kidding, in that aussie way, but not really. We got her up there and she ripped on a bluesy tune of her own, and a Bob Dylan classic as well – they went apeshit. Following my wife was kinda like trying to follow Jerry Lee Lewis after he set his piano on fire. For the second set, Mojo Webb and his band came out and backed me up on a few tunes, they were awesome. We had no rehearsal, and sometimes that's the best way. It was a beautiful night.

Day: 25: Back up north to Gerry and Carmen's private nature reserve. We were playing a little gig near their house called Peregian Originals. A weekly outdoor concert at the beach, put on by Jay Bishoff, a guy the knew Karen and I from way back in the old days when we all played the beach bars in the South Bay. Last time he saw us, we were around 24 years old! He married an Australian girl, settled down in this beachside paradise called the Sunshine Coast, and never looked back. Even acquired that distinctive half oz-half American accent I notice the ex-pats here all have. Karen and I were both doing a set, and it was a fun afternoon. We played on a sunny grassy field just over a sand dune from the beach, on a stage set up just a few feet away from a sign that said: "BEWARE OF SNAKES!" You know you're in Australia when…

Day 26: The four of us packed up our gear and prepared to say farewell to the Lucky Country, we were on our way to New Zealand!

Day 27: Today we would combine work and tourism like we never had before. Karen, during the tireless research that she always applies to a trip such as this, came across the TranzAlpine Train. A railroad journey from Christchurch, NZ, across the stunning Southern Alps, and back down to the wild west coast of New Zealand, terminating in the small town of Greymouth. About three weeks before we were set to leave, and it was assumed that all the tour dates were in place, I happened to mention in passing to Baiba that we were taking this train ride.

"Did you say Greymouth?!" she said. She seemed unusually excited for news of such a mundane nature.

 "Yes." I said.

"Jan grew up there! I can't believe it! You must play at the Regent Theatre! They've been wanting her to come do a show for years. I'll get right on it!"

Next thing I knew, we had a gig at the Regent Theatre. I had accidentally gotten Jan Preston to play a show in the town where she was born, after not setting foot in the place since the mid-70s. Luckily, nothing much in New Zealand has changed since the mid-70s (and I mean that in a good way), so there probably wasn't going to be anything too shocking.

After four whacks on the snooze-button, we were up at the godawful hour of six am, headed for the train station. It was a spectacular ride across – the Southern Alps were just what you would imagine them to be. Tall, craggy snow-capped mountains, with foothills of rolling green fields, dotted with sheep. Well, more than "dotted" really, there are a lot of sheep in New Zealand. During the four-hour ride we partook of the tea and scones (excellent) and the "cheese plate" (lame…unless your idea of a cheese plate is two shrink-wrapped pieces of cheese available at any gas station convenience mart, and a couple of stale crackers). But who cared about the food, the scenery took your breath away. We arrived in Greymouth and headed for the hotel we had booked before we knew there was a gig. This was a little seaside retreat about 30 km north of town called Punakaiki Resort. And what an idyllic, fantasy location it was. A grouping of airy wooden structures just across the highway from the broad expanse of Punakaiki Beach. The whole thing was very Highway-1-Central-California-Coast, except for when you would look up into the hills and see them covered with trees straight out of a Dr. Seuss book. Then you knew for sure that you could not be anywhere in the world except the West Coast of the South Island of New Zealand. With three hours to go before soundcheck, had some lunch in the lovely and excellent hotel restaurant – where we had a good and proper New Zealand cheese plate, thank you very much – and then commenced to cavort on the beach. On one side were fabulous prehistoric moss covered rock outcroppings, on the other side were the "Pancake Rocks," a peculiar geological feature of this part of the world…thin stacks of rock piled high like the #2 Lumberjack Breakfast at Uncle Bill's Pancake House, hold the syrup. All around us, Black-Backed Gulls scooped mussels and oysters from the surf, flew high into the sky with their prize, and let them plummet to the rocks, breaking the shell so they could feast on the morsel within. A real National Geographic Moment.

We arrived at soundcheck to find a very substandard sound system, and people so kind and helpful that it was impossible to get too bent out of shape about it. In any case, after much tweaking and experimenting, we got it all in acceptable working order. Many more people showed up for the show than had bought advance tickets, which we a relief, we had no idea if this was going to bomb or not. This being Jan's homecoming concert, I knew it would be more about her than me. This was like doing a show with Bruce Springsteen at the Asbury Park Convention Center. She went out first for a longish set, and there was much love. I was on next, and had no trouble getting a whole lot of love myself. It was a great night. Knowing what a small town it was, Gerry and Carmen and Karen did a little reconnaissance while I was doing the post-gig schmooze, and got a barbecue joint across the street to stay open late for us so we could eat, we were starving!

Day 28: We spent the morning checking out the spectacular Pancake Rocks, visiting with the Weka birds, and hitting the local tourist shops, where you could buy anything you wanted, as long as it had a picture of a kiwi bird on it. Then it was the TranzAlpine Train back over the mountains to Christchurch for the final show of the tour: the New Zealand International Blues & Jazz Festival. We checked into the Millennium Hotel in downtown Christchurch, right on Cathedral Square, where the fest was putting us up for the next three days. Very swank! As always, when finding myself on the road in a hotel room of this quality, I took a moment to sit and give thanks to the road gods for my good fortune, and then reflect on just how far I had managed to come from those days when I slugged it out in the bars all night and stayed at any Motel 6 that would have me. Sometimes it's hard to see how the work you do pays off while you're doing it. Until a moment like this one. About two months before this trip, I got an email from Alan Slade, owner of the Octagon Jazz Club, just three blocks from the hotel we were staying at. We had the evening free, and decided to take him up on the invitation. Upon arrival, we came upon a scene we were not prepared for. We were expecting your basic jazz joint, but this place was anything but that. A 19th century cathedral had been converted into a world-class performance space and high-end restaurant, stained glass intact. We stepped into the rarified surroundings, suddenly wondering if we had dressed appropriately for the occasion. I asked the hostess if Mr. Slade was around, and soon the man himself, dapper and brimming with old-world charm, appeared. He led us to a table, where after a short time, he joined us himself. About this time, poor Carmen began to feel ill. The trip we finally beginning to catch up to her. My tour schedule, when inflicted on normal people, often makes them a bit queasy. She reluctantly decided to head back to the room, and Gerry, excellent husband that he is, accompanied her back. That left just Karen and I, and our host. Alan Slade revealed himself to be a fascinating man. He came from money, and had an endless well of spectacular stories to tell. From his years in South Africa and Sydney, to the tales of trouble and triumph as an owner of Japanese racehorses. He was so classy and smooth that I began to feel a little self-conscious about my Lumpenproletariat roots and manner. I felt that with every word I spoke, my New Jersey was showing, and maybe not in a good way. I found out later that he certainly noticed all this about me – and loved it, as he told Karen while I was away from the table. My rough and basic exterior at first masked an ability to hold my own intellectually, or something like that. I've always strove to be as knowledgeable as possible without being effete. Sometimes I even succeed. There was a lesson in that: never be ashamed of who you are, even if you are just a kid from the far rural suburbs of New Jersey. After a while, Gerry came back to join us, and Alan's lovely daughter Natalie sat down with us as well. She was the chartreuse on stage singing those Great American Songbook standards, and doing a spectacular job of it. This all highlighted by a multimedia performance of "As Time Goes By" complete with footage and sound from "Casablanca" on a screen behind the singer. After a spectacular multi-course meal, I sat in for a couple of songs, and then did a couple of my own. Although I admit it was not that easy to sing well after eating five courses of gourmet feedbag. Karen and I left the place hours after arriving, walking on air. Sometimes I wonder what the hell I'm doing traipsing all over the world playing music, often hemorrhaging money and threatening my health and sanity in the process. This is why…nights like this are what make this life worth living.

Day 29: We spent the day taking in the sights in Christchurch, including the truly wonderful Botanical Gardens and the Kiwi House. The Kiwi House would most assuredly be our only shot at seeing this country's celebrated native flightless bird, and namesake of its people. Everywhere you went in this country, an image of the kiwi was evident; every tourist shop featured every possible item available with a kiwi on it. Yet the real bird was almost impossible to find. More than 90% of them have been wiped out by cats and possums and other species introduced since the Europeans arrived. The Kiwi is unlike any other creature you'll ever see, much larger than you expect it to be. Shy and nocturnal and strange. Small groups of us were instructed to be very quiet as we were led into the darkened room where the kiwis were. We spied one rooting for insects in the dirt, as it had for millennia…a fascinating sight.

Later on I headed over to the Great Hall of the Christchurch Arts Center for sound-check. What a place! A large hall in the former Canterbury University, built at the height of the Victorian era, it had been converted into an amazing performance space. Full theatrical lighting, a high stage and seating for about 500. The piano was a 9-foot Steinway concert grand, and one of the best I've ever played. Jan Preston had played here just a couple of days before, and she told me to be prepared one of the best piano experiences of my life. She was not exaggerating. It was a truly fine instrument.

About twenty minutes before showtime, I could be found in the dressing room backstage, pacing and terrified. This was a big one. The place was packed and none of them had any idea what to expect. Finally I was given the five-minute warning by the stage manager, heard the introduction, and went out there to face the crowd. It was without doubt one of the best shows on my life. What a wonderful audience. I will not soon forget them. It could not have been a better ending for this long and sometimes strange journey. I did a two-hour show, and then spent over an hour meeting and greeting and signing in the lobby. Afterwards, Gerry and Carmen and Karen and I had a celebratory dinner at a restaurant next door, where the waiter warned Karen against a "stiff Ozzy Shiraz" when she was ordering wine. Our appetizer was the deli plate from backstage that I was too nervous to eat before the show. Much to my wife's embarrassment, I brought it over to the restaurant. What can I say – it was an exceptional deli plate! We did respectable damage to it before the main course arrived.

Day 30 & 31: We spent a day touring the countryside by tour-bus, and took a boat out to sea where we encountered the great Albatross. A breathtaking sight. The next day flew up to Auckland to catch the flight back to America. It was hard to say goodbye to Gerry and Carmen. We have become so close, yet they are so far away.

Eleven hours over the Pacific later, we were home.

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Thursday, January 18, 2007

REEF, ROOS & BLUES - Part III (Heron Island)

Part III: Heron Island


A

fter a quick stop in Brisbane, where we had dinner with our Ozzie friend and genius/mathematician/rocket-scientist/mentally-Ill-Bob-Dylan-Fan John Lattanzio, we were off to Heron Island and the Great Barrier Reef. The Great Barrier Reef! Just the name alone invites you to daydream of adventure. It is the world's largest living organism – at over 1,200 miles in length, it can be seen from space and stretches along over one-third of the east coast of Australia – about 100 miles or so off shore.


There are 618 islands near the reef – most uninhabited – but Heron is the only one that is right on the reef itself. No vomitous boat-ride out to the reef every time you want to see it, on Heron you can take off your shoes, put on your shorty- shorts, and walk right out to the reef. But first, there was the matter of the 90-mile boat ride out the island. We were up at
4:30am, on a plane to the little industrial costal town of Gladstone by seven, and on the boat by 11:00.


In the months and weeks leading up to this part of the trip, I was imagining a post-gig tropical paradise island vacation. But now that I was here, the air was chilly, the skies overcast, the ocean choppy. All was depressingly different that I had pictured it. And
Gladstone, the mainland jumping-off point, was a dreary smokestack town…not a palm tree in sight! Also, it was May in Australia, which meant that winter was coming. And indeed, Heron Island is at the very southernmost tip of the Barrier Reef, not really far enough north to be part of the Australian tropical zone. If you turn America upside down, so that it gets warmer as you go north, you will begin to get the picture. I had envisioned a trip to the Florida Keys, but we were in North Carolina.


Three hours later, we were on the island. The sky was still slate gray and a miserable drizzly rain fell on us. Still, I could already tell there was something magical about the place.


After checking into our rooms, we were given the island tour. The main building with the bar, pool and lounge. The restaurant building. The helipad. We quickly learned that this island belonged to the birds, and the people were just visiting their island. Everywhere you went, there were little Buff-Banded Rails, strutting around importantly, like they owned the place…which they basically did. This bird was also found in the dining room, and if you left your food unattended, you were liable to lose it to a rail. They were bold, unabashed food-pinchers, these birds. Also it was Short-Tailed Shearwater hatching season. Locally known as the Mutton Bird, there were fuzzy chicks all over the place, looking very confused and disoriented. You just wanted to pick the poor things up and swaddle them in a blanket and take them someplace safe. But of course, that was out of the question. They had been left alone by their parents to learn how to fend for themselves…or die trying. Lest they become the aviary version of the twenty-six year old guy that still lives with his parents.


I soon discovered there was really very little to do on Heron…and I mean that in a good way. Like most urban Americans in the early twenty-first century, I am faced with an incomprehensible array of things to do. My entertainment choices and diversions are never-ending. So myriad are my choices, in fact, that I often end up sitting stunned in front of the TV, paralyzed by indecision, channel surfing through the night, unable to commit to even a half hour television show.


But on
Heron Island, the choices were limited, and therefore, all were to be appreciated. My attention span lengthened immediately. I could spend hours with a book. Or strolling on the beach. Or contemplating the sky. Meals were to be savored, not inhaled. I was certainly a better husband. My full attention could be lavishly aimed at my wife. And that is how it should be. Life is short, and to find one's true love is rare.


We took bird walks and reef walks. We spent each morning snorkeling in the shallows at high tide. We shared the water with baby lemon sharks who had come in looking for small fish to eat. We swam with a juvenile green sea turtle that we followed for most of an hour as he grazed the underwater fields of turtle grass. We floated one morning in wonder as a vast flock of rays glided by us like a mirage.


In the evening, everyone on the island gathered around the pool and in the main hall for conversation and games and drinks. The building this gathering takes place in was once a turtle cannery. Luckily for the turtles, the Australian Turtle Soup Company went out of business shortly after opening, and by the thirties, the place was a resort.


The main even every evening was the sunset. There is little I have experienced that is finer than watching the sun slowly fall into the ocean beyond the wooden gantry just off
Heron Island. One night it occurred to me that we were here all because I had gathered up the email addresses of some Australian blues festival bookers and sent letters out into the cyber void in a 3 a.m. frenzy of productivity, hoping something would happen. I could have just as easily not done it. An exhilarating and frightening thought.


One afternoon, we met a wonderful couple from
New York – Howie and Karen Landsman. Howie, it turned out, grew up in New Jersey and was a big fan of New Orleans music. Amazed, I found myself on an island of Australia talking about The Meters, and Professor Longhair, and the Neville Brothers and countless other great Crescent City music makers with a guy with the same accent as me. Who'd have thought?


We ate breakfast, lunch and dinner with the Buff-Banded Rails in the main (and only) dining room. A gigantic buffet was always on hand. And we feasted mightily. I was constantly amazed to be there.


One particularly amazing member of the island staff was Jason Elliott. He led reef walks, stargazing excursions, and snorkeling trips. A fascinating and funny character, his knowledge of astronomy and marine biology were extensive, yet he was trained in neither. One day he took us out to the reef at low tide and showed us myriad signs of life in the shallow water that we would have unwittingly trampled right by had he not been there to point it out. My wife, a big fan of the crab…yes, the crab, pointed out to Jason her disappointment that there seemed to be no crabs on the island. He said "What do you mean, no crabs? They're everywhere!" Then, genie-like, he rubbed a nearby clump of grass and out shot a tiny green Turtle Weed Crab, who proceeded to play dead in
Karen's hand. She was as delighted as a girl could be. I heard her squeal from some distance away. I myself was preoccupied with the extremely deadly and aggressive cone snails that were making their way across the sand. Australia, it is always good to remember, is a potentially deadly sort of paradise.


Our final day on the island, we went diving for the first time. Lessons in the pool at
8 a.m., diving on the reef by eleven. No time to get cold feet. It was the way to go. Our dive instructor took us each by the arm and led us into an undersea paradise like we had never experienced. It all ended way too soon. I had always enjoyed snorkeling, but this was something else entirely. Kind of like how I had always been content to play for fifty or a hundred people in a club until I had experienced my first theatre crowd. There is nothing quite so life changing as the first time you feel that comber of applause from four or five thousand people wash over you.


And then, all too soon, we were on our way home. The last thing we saw before leaving the island was a magnificent eagle ray breaching the water like some mystical phantom from the depths. It was something you would never believe had you not seen it with your own eyes.


We stayed one last night in Brisbane, enjoying Aussie steaks and lemon lime and bitters at the rip-roaring Brekky Creek Hotel with our new friends Jerry and Carmen (by the way: in Australia, a hotel is a bar, and "brekky" means breakfast…also, "pokies" means poker, wombats are "wombies." You get the idea).  


Then we flew home.


And like I said before, this once foreign land inhabits a permanent part of my heart. We will be back again.

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REEF, ROOS & BLUES - Part II (Blues on Broadbeach)
Category: Travel and Places

Part II: Blues on Broadbeach


I guess I haven't really gotten around to mentioning this yet
, but our reason for being in Australia was not play tourist in Sydney, but because I was booked to play for four days at the Blues on Broadbeach Music Festival. For years, I had been getting airplay on various Australian radio stations, but all attempts travel down under and play live had been thwarted. Eventually, a very helpful radio guy supplied me with a list of Australian blues festivals, and I got to work, shamelessly soliciting. The result: here I was, flying to
Brisbane Australia, all expenses paid! It all started with one email, sent at two in the morning. Pretty amazing, when you stop to think about it.


The festival sent a car and driver, and we were whisked in high style from the airport for the one-hour drive to the Gold Coast, where the festival was happening. Our driver was Jeoff – a real Aussie if there ever was one. On the way down, he gave us various tips on speaking Oz. "How'd ya scrub up?" is what you ask someone the morning after a hard night of drinking. And "Good on ya!" which is the delightful Aussie version of "good for you!" or "you rock!" And that being called a bastard is a good thing, provided there's an adjective preceding it. As in "funny bastard!" or "crazy bastard" or "queer bastard" – which is not to be confused with "queer," which is of course something else entirely. However, plain old "bastard" means, well…bastard.


During the ride I was again struck by how much what I was seeing along the road reminded me of
America. The same Home Depots and K Marts and TGI Fridays. No Outback Steakhouse, however – we were not successful in selling a watered-down parody of Australia back to the Ozzies. As we got near the Gold Coast area, theme parks began to appear – one was kind of a dinner show/circus/theme park hybrid called the "Outback Spectacular," which reminded me that even for most Australians, the Outback is a mysterious faraway place.


We really could have been anywhere…except we were driving on the wrong side of the road, of course. It saddened me to think that our aggressively homogenized suburban chain-store and parking lot landscape had spread even to this faraway land. Because you know the Australians didn't invent this shit. This one is all on us.


Soon enough, we reached our destination. The Gold Coast is a major resort area, very much the Miami Beach of Oz. It is a land of pristine white sand beaches, pastel high-rise hotels, bungalows and boats lining inland canals. This wasn't going to be a gig, it was going to be a vacation!


We arrived at the Sofitel Goldcoast and the rock star treatment began immediately. I was met by the delightful Joy, from Broadbeach Marketing, who welcomed me warmly and explained that if I needed anything…anything at all, she would provide it. Then I was introduced to Adam, the hotel manager, who promised to be at beck and call at all hours. I hadn't even played a note yet, and already I could say without hesitation that this was the best gig I ever did!


Back up at the oceanfront view room (complete with complimentary champagne and cheese-plate),
Karen articulated what I had already been thinking. If we hadn't already been married, and Karen was a chick I had recently met and was trying to impress, that incident in the hotel lobby would have most definitely gotten me laid. In fact, it seemed to have put Karen back in touch with the leather and long hair Sunset Strip Rock & Roll groupie chick that I know is still inside her. She perhaps viewed me in a whole different way.


My first task upon arrival, however, was not to get laid, it was to do a phone-interview with Gerry Blain – AKA "Chillblain" of "Chillblain's Port & Cornflakes," a blues show on Noosa Public Radio. He was covering the blues fest on his show and had been playing my CDs for a while, so we were going to do an interview. The phone in our room was a sleek little wireless unit – nothing about it screamed "prohibitively expensive per-minute hotel phone charges" like a standard hotel phone usually does, so I heedlessly picked up the phone, settled into the balcony chair with the idyllic view of the beach, and dialed Gerry. There was even a rainbow out there, room charges were the furthest thing from my mind. Well, two hours later and forevermore, that became known as the "Hundred Dollar Radio Interview." It was worth it, though – Gerry and I were on the phone for nearly two hours, and became friends in the process. I'd say only about twenty minutes of the conversation actually made it onto the radio – the rest was just a pleasant shooting of the shit.


I was contracted to play four shows, all within walking distance of the hotel: a private party for the donors and other bigwigs that made the festival possible, a show at the local shopping mall (somebody get me Tiffany's manager on the phone!), a set on the outdoor mainstage, and a gig at Conrad Jupiter's Casino. On paper, it looked like an entire "Behind the Music" career trajectory all in one weekend. From his humble beginnings playing small parties and shopping malls, to his meteoric rise to fame playing to thousands on festival stages around the world, to his tragic decline on the casino circuit, through it all
Bob Malone has…


The shopping mall was attached to the hotel, and during the two days we were in town before I had to play there, we passed through the place many times on our way in and out. Deep in the bowels of the place, there sat a grand piano, surrounded by a shoe store, a rug shop, and a women's plus-sizes outlet. Every time I passed by the piano, I was overcome by a great stomach-churning spasm of dread and foreboding. After the second or third time by, I declared a moratorium on sniggering comments from my wife about shopping mall gigs. It became "The Gig That Dare Not Speak Its Name." I simply could not believe I had agreed to do this.

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Finally, the day came. Showtime was in the afternoon, around 2, so at
1:00, I went down there to see if it was time to sound check. The piano was there, as always, but that was it…no PA, no sound guy, no chairs for the audience. They did tell me that chairs would be set up, so I wouldn't just be sitting there playing and singing while people trundled by, on their way from Spencer Gifts to the fucking 12-Plex. I hurried back to the room, and called the promoter to tell her what was up. "No worries, I'll take care of it" she said. That is what I like to hear! And is there a better Australian phrase than "no worries"? I think not.


A half hour later, I tried again, and there was the P.A. system…sort of. It was a single speaker, and a microphone, and the guy from the mall. He was a great guy, really friendly, extremely helpful…but he had no clue about how to run that PA. I did an end run around the prima-donna fit I felt coming on, and became one with my new mantra: "No worries! No dramas!" After all, I was in
Australia, at the beach, on vacation, and getting paid for it – what was there really to be upset about?


Then, about ten minutes before I was supposed to start playing, a crowd started forming – a good crowd – filling the whole area around the piano. People standing, people sitting on the floor, people sitting on benches. I could not believe it. And then I realized – it was in the program! This wasn't just some gig in a mall, it was part of the festival. All over town, there were slick little booklets listing all of the blues fest shows, and this, of course, was one of them. All that worrying for nothing.


Sometimes I am such an ass.


Well, I beat that piano and shouted into that microphone for two and a half hours, and enjoyed every second of it. The crowd was great to play to! And considering that nobody had a comfortable seat, they were possessed of an astounding attention-span. I kept expecting the standers to wander away after a few songs, but they never did.


During the break, I met Harry Miller for the first time. He was there with a video camera and wanted to know if it was OK to shoot. As the days went on, I realized that everybody in the Oz blues scene knew Harry. He is famous for his house concerts and sausage sizzle. "You're nobody til you've played at my house, mate!" He was joking, but I am pretty much nobody in the grand scheme of things, so I secretly figured that playing his house could only help. I'll be doing the gig next year!


Later that evening we met Gerry and his wife Carmen and Baiba and Joy and a whole table full of people from the festival booking office for dinner. We talked and laughed and ate for hours, and made new lifelong friends in the process. It was a wonderful night.


So now I was two gigs into the festival week, and it still felt like a vacation. It was a unique experience. Usually, if I've gone somewhere to play music, no matter how idyllic the setting, it is nothing like being on vacation. You are working – fun as this particular job may be. But here –
Karen was with me, we were staying at a resort hotel at the beach, we were being treated like paying customers…and my next show wasn't until tomorrow.


We spent the morning walking along the white sand beach, looking for shells. "That's because you both have OCD!"
Karen's mom once said, when told of our shared interest in Conchology (she was right, of course). Later on, we cruised down to the next town along the coast – Surfers Paradise. "Surfers" to the natives. Didn't like it as well as Broadbeach, it was mostly tacky t-shirt shops, mediocre restaurants, and strip joints…nothing we hadn't seen in Venice Beach or Lauderdale. If we were still twenty-something years old, we would have loved it.


Today was also
Karen's birthday, and I got her just what she wanted: the Night Tour of Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary. Joy at Broadbeach Marketing set it all up for us, as promised. All we had to do was wait for the driver to pick us up.


Most Australian creatures are nocturnal, so this was a chance to see in action the Koalas, Wombats, and Tasmanian Devils et al that were asleep at the zoo in
Sydney. Upon arrival, the very first thing they did was put a baby saltwater crocodile in our hands…mouth taped shut, of course. The "Saltie" is just about the deadliest, most aggressive critter in Oz. And this is a land of many deadly creatures. These guys will eat anything. At the Sydney Zoo we saw two baby salties, not more than eight inches long, viciously attack the zoo-keeper when he opened the door to feed them. They are apparently born with a taste for man-flesh.


The one we held was…uh…how do I put this? Cute.
Karen cooed over the little reptile like it was a fuzzy newborn kitten. Given the chance, it would have chewed her face off.


Shortly after, we watched close up as a beautiful white owl disemboweled and ate a live rat. It started by biting off the head, after that, the internal organs and intestines really began to fly. The zookeeper and the other Ozzies in the crowd were completely unfazed by this. Amused, in fact. We tourists were not handling it quite so well.


I had noticed by now that Australians are not nearly as squeamish about blood and guts as we Americans. Even before the rat-eviscerating owl,